Apple Confirms All Macs and iOS Devices Are Affected by ‘Meltdown’ Chip Flaw

Apple Inc. said all Mac computers and iOS devices, like iPhones and iPads, are affected by chip security flaws unearthed this week, but the company stressed there are no known exploits impacting users.

The Cupertino, California-based company said recent software updates for iPads, iPhones, iPod touches, Mac desktops and laptops, and the Apple TV set-top-box mitigate one of the vulnerabilities known as Meltdown. The Apple Watch, which runs a derivative of the iPhone’s operating system is not affected, according to the company.

Despite concern that fixes may slow down devices, Apple said its steps to address the Meltdown issue haven’t dented performance. The company will release an update to its Safari web browser in coming days to defend against another form of the security flaw known as Spectre. These steps could slow the speed of the browser by less than 2.5 percent, Apple said in a statement posted on its website.

Apple shares rose less than 1 percent to $173.56 in early trading Friday in New York.

Intel Corp. on Wednesday confirmed a report stating that its semiconductors contain a vulnerability based around a chip-processing technique called speculative execution. Intel said its chips, which power Macs and devices from other manufacturers, contain the flaw as well as processors based on ARM Holdings architecture, which is used in iOS devices and Android smartphones.

In December, Apple came under fire for iPhone software changes that reduced the performance of some older models of its smartphone. Alongside an apology and an explanation that a software change was implemented to balance out the effect of aging batteries, the company reduced the cost of replacing the power units from $79 to $29 through the end of 2018.

Security experts have said highly regulated sectors of industry, such as government offices and public health institutions, are most at risk of compromise as a result of the chip security vulnerability.

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How to type?

Impress your friends and family by learning how to type faster! The following steps will increase your ability to touch-type at a faster speed. If you follow the steps in this article, over time you will become a better typist, able even to correct errors while looking at the screen instead of the keyboard.

Leaning to type

Place your fingers in the “home” position. That’s the position in which your fingers will rest between keystrokes. No matter what part of the keyboard you’re using, your fingers will always come back to rest in this position. Place your right index finger on the “J” key and let the other three fingers fall naturally onto the “K”, “L” and “;” keys respectively. Place your left index finger on the “F” key and let the other three finger fall naturally onto the “D”, “S”, and “A” keys respectively. Both thumbs should rest on the space bar, but only the right thumb should key it.

You should feel a raised bump on both the “F” and “J” keys. These will allow your fingers to find the home position without having to look at the keyboard. Type each key from left to right. Type each letter covered by the fingers in the home position, going from left to right: a s d f j k l ;. You shouldn’t have to move your fingers from their home positions. Just press the keys they are resting on. Repeat, but this time capitalize. Repeat the step above, but this time in capital letters: A S D F J K L :. Use the shift key to capitalize rather than the caps lock. Push the shift key by moving only your nearest pinkie finger and pressing and holding it while pushing the desired letter with your other hand.

In other words, when the letter you would like capitalized is typed with your left hand, you press the right shift key with your right pinkie. When the letter you would like capitalized is typed with your right hand, you press the left shift key with your left pinkie. Become familiar with the rest of the alphabet. Learn where each letter is positioned on the keyboard, and use the nearest finger to contact each key.

“q” “a” and “z” are typed with the left pinkie, and so are the tab, caps lock, and shift keys. “w” “s” and “x” are typed with the left ring finger. “e” “d” and “c” are typed with the left middle finger. “r” “f” “v” “b” “g” and “t” are typed with the left index finger. Your thumbs should never leave the space bar. “u” “j” “n” “m” “h” and “y” are typed with your right index finger. “i” “k” and the keys with “,” and “<” are typed with the right middle finger. “o” “l” and the keys with “>” and “.” are typed with the right ring finger. Your right pinkie finger is used for typing: “p”, “;”, “:”, “‘”, “””, “/”, “?”, “[“, “{“, “]”, “}”, “\”, “|”, and is used for pressing the shift, enter, and backspace keys.

Type your first sentence. Starting from the home position, type: “The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog”. This sentence contains every letter in the alphabet, so it’s a perfect sentence for practicing the correct finger positioning. Type the sentence over and over, watching your fingers to make sure they go to the right keys and immediately return to home position. Once you begin to feel comfortable with the way your fingers are moving, try to look at the screen while you type rather than looking at the keyboard. This is known as touch typing.

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Acer’s Chromebook 11 brings USB-C charging to entry-level laptops

Acer’s hiding a quiet revolution in its mainstream Chromebook 11: two USB 3.1 Gen 1 (5Gbps) Type-C ports, which work for connectivity and for charging. Don’t run in a panic to the dongle store—you still get two USB 3.0 Type-A ports (whew!). But USB-C has remained rare in entry-level machines like the Chromebook 11. This tells us the tide is turning, and all the benefits of USB-C will soon be available even at budget levels.

Chromebook 11 specs and features

The Chromebook 11 CB311-8HT and CB311-8H, announced Saturday at CES and due to ship in April, otherwise represent a simple refresh of the company’s longstanding and popular product line. The pricing will start at $249. Here are the specs and features we know.

CPU: Intel Celeron (part numbers were not specified)

RAM: 4GB is the only amount offered.

Display: 11.6-inch, 1366×768 IPS in touch (CB311-8HT) or non-touch (CB311-8H)

Storage: 16GB or 32GB eMMC

HDR webcam (high dynamic range, which should deliver better image quality) with integrated microphone

Connectivity:

  • Ÿ Two USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type-C ports
  • Ÿ Two USB 3.0 Type-A ports
  • Ÿ One microSD card reader

Weight: 2.43 pounds

Thickness: 0.71 inch (no other dimensions were provided)

Battery life: Up to 10 hours

As with other recent Chromebooks, the Chromebook 11 supports the Google Play Store, so you get access to all the Android apps you could possibly want. Google’s still working on making these apps more Chromebook-friendly, but their simple availability has increased the usefulness of Chromebooks beyond education and basic web browsing.

Acer’s Chromebook 11 is so mainstream you might overlook it. This year, with Android app support and especially USB-C, it’s a sign that the average computing experience is moving forward—but gently, so you’re not shut out of your precious USB-A peripherals  just yet.

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How to protect your PC from the major Meltdown and Spectre CPU flaws

A pair of nasty CPU flaws exposed this week have serious ramifications for home computer users. Meltdown and Spectre let attackers access protected information in your PC’s kernel memory, potentially revealing sensitive details like passwords, cryptographic keys, personal photos and email, or anything else you’ve used on your computer. It’s a serious flaw. Fortunately, CPU and operating system vendors pushed out patches fast, and you can protect your PC from Meltdown and Spectre to some degree.

It’s not a quick one-and-done deal, though. They’re two very different CPU flaws that touch every part of your operating system, from hardware to software to the operating system itself. Check out PCWorld’s Meltdown and Spectre FAQ for everything you need to know about the vulnerabilities themselves. We’ve cut through the technical jargon to explain what you need to know in clear, easy-to-read language. We’ve also created an overview of how the Spectre CPU bug affects phones and tablets.

The guide you’re reading now focuses solely on protecting your computer against the Meltdown and Spectre CPU flaws.

How to protect your PC against Meltdown and Spectre CPU flaws

Here’s a quick step-by-step checklist, followed by the full process.

  • Update your operating system
  • Check for firmware updates
  • Update your browser
  • Keep your antivirus active

First, and most important: Update your operating system right now. The more severe flaw, Meltdown, affects “effectively every [Intel] processor since 1995,” according to the Google security researchers that discovered it. It’s an issue with the hardware itself, but the major operating system makers have rolled out updates that protect against the Meltdown CPU flaw.

Microsoft pushed out an emergency Windows patch late in the day on January 3. If it didn’t automatically update your PC, head to Start > Settings > Update & Security > Windows Update, then click the Check now button under “Update status.” (Alternatively, you can just search for “Windows Update,” which also works for Windows 7 and 8.) Your system should detect the available update and begin downloading it. Install the update immediately.

You might not see the update, though. Some antivirus products aren’t playing nice with the emergency patch, causing Blue Screens of Death and boot-up errors. Microsoft says it’s only “offering the Windows security updates released on January 3, 2018 to devices running anti-virus software from partners who have confirmed their software is compatible with the January 2018 Windows operating system security update.” Security researcher Kevin Beaumont is maintaining an updated list of antivirus compatibility status. Most are supported at this point. If your AV isn’t supported, do not manually download the Meltdown patch unless you turn it off and switch to Windows Defender first.

But machines with compatible antivirus still may not automatically apply the update. If you’re sure your security suite won’t bork your system, you can also download the Windows 10 KB4056892 patch directly here. You’ll need to know whether to grab the 32-bit (x86) or 64-bit (x64) version of the update. To determine if your PC runs a 32- or 64-bit version of Windows, simply type “system” (without the quotation marks) into Windows search and click the top listing. It’ll open a Control Panel window. The “System type” listing will tell you which version of Windows you’re running. Most PCs released in the past decade will be using the 64-bit operating system.

Apple quietly worked Meltdown protections into macOS High Sierra 10.13.2, which released in December. If your Mac doesn’t automatically apply updates, force it by going into the App Store’s Update tab. Chromebooks should have already updated to Chrome OS 63 in December. It contains mitigations against the CPU flaws. Linux developers are working on kernel patches. Patches are also available for the Linux kernel.

Now for the bad news. The operating system patches will slow down your PC, though the extent varies wildly depending on your CPU and the workloads you’re running. Intel expects the impact to be fairly small for most consumer applications like games or web browsing, and initial testing supports that. Our FAQ digs into potential PC performance slowdowns from the patches. You still want to install the updates for security reasons.

Check for a firmware update

Because Meltdown’s CPU exploits exist on a hardware level, Intel is also releasing firmware updates for its processors. “By the end of next week, Intel expects to have issued updates for more than 90 percent of processor products introduced within the past five years,” it said in a statement on January 4.

Actually getting those firmware updates is tricky, because firmware updates aren’t issued directly from Intel. Instead, you need to snag them from the company that made your laptop, PC, or motherboard—think HP, Dell, Gigabyte, et cetera. Most prebuilt computers and laptops have a sticker with model details somewhere on their exterior. Find that, then search for the support page for your PC or motherboard’s model number.

Update your browser

You also need to protect against Spectre, which tricks software into accessing your protected kernel memory. Intel, AMD, and ARM chips are vulnerable to Spectre to some degree. Software applications need to be updated to protect against Spectre. The major PC web browsers have all issued updates as a first line of defense against nefarious websites seeking to exploit the CPU flaw with Javascript.

Microsoft updated Edge and Internet Explorer alongside Windows 10. Firefox 57 also wraps in some Spectre safeguards. Chrome 63 made “Site Isolation” an optional experimental feature. You can activate it right now by entering chrome://flags/#enable-site-per-process into your URL bar, then clicking Enable next to “Strict site isolation.” Chrome 64 will have more protections in place when it launches on January 23.

Keep your antivirus active

Finally, this ordeal underlines how important it is to keep your PC protected. The Google researchers who discovered the CPU flaws say that traditional antivirus wouldn’t be able to detect a Meltdown or Spectre attack. But attackers need to be able to inject and run malicious code on your PC to take advantage of the exploits. Keeping security software installed and vigilant helps keep hackers and malware off your computer. Plus, “your antivirus may detect malware which uses the attacks by comparing binaries after they become known,” Google says.

PCWorld’s guide to the best antivirus for Windows PCs can help you find the best option for your setup—though note the section above where we discuss the compatibility issues some AV programs are having with the new Windows patch.

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Not us! Android makers say they never slow phones over battery problems

Android phone makers are responding to Apple’s recent public relations nightmare, after it was revealed the company slowed older iPhone models down to compensate for aging batteries, and to avoid any problems that may occur due to them. Samsung, LG, HTC, and Motorola have all made statements saying they do not use similar tactics.

Motorola does not throttle processors inside its phones when the battery gets old, the company told The Verge, while HTC said something very similar. LG was even more forthcoming, saying it never has, and never will slow down processors inside its devices, because it, “cares what our customers think.”

Samsung issued a longer statement, saying that in addition to not slowing processors over time, it uses software and built-in safety features to “govern the battery-charging current and charging duration.” This suggests Samsung prefers to manage the battery as it starts to age, rather than temper the processor to reduce strain. We have contacted Huawei and OnePlus for comment, and will update when both respond.

While many will be pleased their Android phones won’t hit an artificial speed limit in the future, this doesn’t mean Android phones are immune to problems. The iPhone uses the same battery technology as every Android phone — therefore it degrades in the same way — and replacing the battery inside almost all flagship Android phones today is an equally awkward process, as well.

Reports of long-term system slowdown for Android phones aren’t rare either, and are usually caused by lack of storage space, memory fragmentation, or other system issues. Huawei is one company that has acknowledged this, and the company has made it very clear how it addresses the problem. Introduced in EMUI 5.0, it used machine learning to understand how you use your phone, then allocate resources intelligently to speed things up, along with new processes to manage memory. It promises EMUI 5 and above-equipped phones will remain fast even after 18 months of use.

Apple has responded to criticism by lowering the price of a replacement battery for the iPhone, which resolves any device throttling. Apple also went into detail about why it implemented these measures in the first place.

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Install Computer’s Power Supply

Teach you how to replace your computer’s internal power supply component.

Step 1.Find the power supply.

This supplies power to the other components, which is why it has so many wires coming out of it. It is usually positioned at the back top corner of the computer case. The power supply has a fan built into it to keep itself and the computer cool.

Step 2.Get into the tower.

To get into the tower, you will have to remove the panel which is on the right hand side when viewing the tower from the back. Open this side of computer case by removing the screws at the back of the tower which are holding it in place. Then simply slide the panel off.

Step 3.Disconnect the power cables.

Cable from the power supply should be connected to each component requiring power. These cables are easy to disconnect simply pull out the plugs from sockets on the back of the components. The plug and socket on the motherboard are a different shape from the normal type, but it should come out just as easily. It may be a good idea to write down how many sockets were disconnected so you can make sure they are all reconnected later with the new unit.

Step 4.Remove the power supply.

Remove the screws at the back of the power supply unit while supporting it with one hand. Once the screws are undone it should be easy to slip the old unit out of the tower.

Step 5.Power cable connection.

Screw in new drive then connect the power cables to every component that was originally connected. Remember if any components are left unconnected they will not work.

Step 6.Get it going again.

Switch the computer on, if all the components have been connected you should be ready to go.

Q&A

My PSU is on the top front of my case. Can you help me to remove it? It comes with a case so it’s generic?

Check for screws on the outside of the case, and inside of it. See where the PSU is being held into the case. I cannot help that much as I do not know what case you have.

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All the Sensors in Your Smartphone, and How They Work

Your smartphone is a remarkable feat of engineering. It’s half a dozen or more gadgets packed into a single slab. Much of it’s coolest feats are accomplished with a wide range of sensors — but what are they and what do they all actually do?

How does your phone count your steps and replace your fitness tracker? Does GPS use up your data? Which sensors should you make sure are in your next handset?

Here’s all you need to know.

Accelerometer

Accelerometers handle axis-based motion sensing and can be found in fitness trackers as well as phones—they’re the reason why your smartphone can track your steps even if you haven’t bought a separate wearable.

They also tell the phone’s software which way the handset is pointing, something that’s becoming increasingly important with the arrival of augmented reality apps.

As the name kind of gives away, accelerometers measure acceleration, so the map inside Snapchat can put a cute toy car around your bitmoji when you’re driving, plus a host of other actually useful applications.

The sensor is itself made up of other sensors, including microscopic crystal structures that become stressed due to accelerative forces. The accelerometer then interprets the voltage coming from the crystals to figure out how fast your phone is moving and which direction it’s pointing in.

From switching apps from portrait to landscape, to showing your current speed in a driving app, the accelerometer is one of your phone’s most important sensors.

Gyroscope

The gyroscope helps the accelerometer out with understanding which way your phone is orientated— it adds another level of precision so those 360-degree photo spheres really look as impressive as possible.

Whenever you play a racing game on your phone and tilt the screen to steer, the gyroscope rather than the accelerometer is sensing what you’re doing, because you’re only applying small turns to the phone and not actually moving through space.

Gyroscopes aren’t exclusive to phones. They’re used in altimeters inside aircraft to determine altitude and position, for example, and to keep cameras steady on the move.

The gyroscopes inside phones don’t use wheels and gimbals like the traditional mechanical ones you might find in an old plane—instead they’re MEMS (Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems) gyroscopes, a smaller version of the concept embedded on an electronics board so it can fit inside a phone.

The first time MEMS gyroscopes really hit it big was with the iPhone 4 in 2010. Back then, it was incredibly novel to have a phone that could detect orientation with such accuracy—nowadays, we take it for granted.

Magnetometer

Completing the triumvirate of sensors responsible for working out where a phone is in physical space is the magnetometer. Again the name gives it away—it measures magnetic fields and can thus tell you which way is north by varying its voltage output to the phone.

When you go in and out of compass mode in Apple Maps or Google Maps, that’s the magnetometer kicking in to work out which way up the map should be. It also powers standalone compass apps.

Magnetometers are found in metal detectors as well, as they can detect magnetic metals, which is why you can get metal detector apps for your smartphone.

However, the sensor doesn’t work alone for its primary purpose, which is inside mapping apps—it operates in tandem with the data coming from the phone’s accelerometer and GPS unit to figure out whereabouts you are in the world, and which way you’re pointing (very handy for those detailed navigation routes).

GPS

Ah, GPS—Global Positioning System technology—where would we be without you? Probably in a remote, muddy field, cursing the day we ditched our paper maps for the electronic equivalents.

GPS units inside phones gets a ping from a satellite up in space to figure out which part of the planet you’re standing on (or driving through). They don’t actually use any of your phone’s data, which is why you can still see your location when your phone has lost signal, even if the map tiles themselves are a blurry, low-res mess.

In fact, it connects with multiple satellites then calculates where you are based on the angles of intersection. If no satellites can be found—you’re indoors or the cloud cover is heavy—then you won’t be able to get a lock.

And while GPS doesn’t use up data, all this communicating and calculating can be a drain on your battery, which is why most battery-saving guides recommend switching GPS off. Smaller gadgets like most smartwatches don’t include it for the same reason.

GPS isn’t the only way your phone can work out where it is—distance to cell towers can also be used as a rough approximation, as Serial taught us—but if you’ve got some serious navigating to do then it’s essential. Modern-day GPS units inside smartphones actually combine GPS signals with other data, like cell signal strength, to get more accurate location readings.

The best of the rest

You’ve got plenty more sensors in your handset, though they’re perhaps not all as important as the four we’ve just mentioned. Many phones, including the iPhone, have a barometer that measures air pressure: it’s useful for everything from detecting weather changes to calculating the altitude you’re at.

The proximity sensor usually sits up near the top speaker and combines an infrared LED and light detector to work out when you have the phone up to your ear, so that screen can be switched off. The sensor emits a beam of light that gets bounced back, though it’s invisible to the human eye.

Meanwhile the ambient light sensor does exactly what you would expect, taking a measuring of the light in the room and adjusting your screen’s brightness accordingly (if indeed it’s set to auto-adjust).

Like the rest of the tech packed inside your handset, these sensors are getting smaller, smarter, and less power-hungry all the time, so just because phones five years apart both have GPS doesn’t mean they’re both going to be as accurate. Add in software tweaks and optimizations too and it’s more reason to upgrade your handset on a regular basis, even if you’ll almost never see these sensors listed on a specs sheet.

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What Do the AI Chips in New Smartphones Actually Do?

Artificial intelligence is coming to your phone. The iPhone X has a Neural Engine as part of its A11 Bionic chip; the Huawei Kiri 970 chip has what’s called a Neural Processing Unit or NPU on it; and the Pixel 2 has a secret AI-powered imaging chip that just got activated. So what exactly are these next-gen chips designed to do?

As mobile chipsets have grown smaller and more sophisticated, they’ve started to take on more jobs and more different kinds of jobs. Case in point, integrated graphics—GPUs now sit alongside CPUs at the heart of high-end smartphones, handling all the heavy lifting for the visuals so the main processor can take a breather or get busy with something else.

The new breed of AI chips are very similar—only this time the designated tasks are recognizing pictures of your pets rather than rendering photo-realistic FPS backgrounds.

What we talk about when we talk about AI

AI, or artificial intelligence, means just that. The scope of the term tends to shift and evolve over time, but broadly speaking it’s anything where a machine can show human-style thought and reasoning.

A person hidden behind a screen operating levers on a mechanical robot is artificial intelligence in the broadest sense—of course today’s AI is way beyond that, but having a programmer code responses into a computer system is just a more advanced version of getting the same end result (a robot that acts like a human).

As for computer science and the smartphones in your pocket, here AI tends to be more narrowly defined. In particular it usually involves machine learning, the ability for a system to learn outside of its original programming, and deep learning, which is a type of machine learning that tries to mimic the human brain with many layers of computation. Those layers are called neural networks, based on the neural networks inside our heads.

So machine learning might be able to spot a spam message in your inbox based on spam it’s seen before, even if the characteristics of the incoming email weren’t originally coded into the filter—it’s learned what spam email is.

Deep learning is very similar, just more advanced and nuanced, and better at certain tasks, especially in computer vision—the “deep” bit means a whole lot more data, more layers, and smarter weighting. The most well-known example is being able to recognize what a dog looks like from a million pictures of dogs.

Plain old machine learning could do the same image recognition task, but it would take longer, need more manual coding, and not be as accurate, especially as the variety of images increased. With the help of today’s superpowered hardware, deep learning (a particular approach to machine learning, remember), is much better at the job.

To put it another way, a machine learning system would have to be told that cats had whiskers to be able to recognize cats. A deep learning system would work out that cats had whiskers on its own.

Bear in mind that an AI expert could write a volume of books on the concepts we’ve just covered in a couple of paragraphs, so we’ve had to simplify it, but those are the basic ideas you need to know.

AI chips on smartphones

As we said at the start, in essence, AI chips are doing exactly what GPU chips do, only for artificial intelligence rather than graphics—offering a separate space where calculations particularly important for machine learning and deep learning can be carried out. As with GPUs and 3D graphics, AI chips give the CPU time to focus on other tasks, and reduces battery draw at the same time. In also means your data is more secure, because less of it has to be sent off to the cloud for processing.

So what does this mean in the real world? It means image recognition and processing could be a lot faster. For instance, Huawei claims that its NPU can perform image recognition on 2,000 pictures every second, which the company also claims is 20 times faster than it would take with a standard CPU.

More specifically, it can perform 1.92 teraflops, or a trillion floating point operations per second, when working with 16-bit floating point numbers. As opposed to integers or whole numbers, floating point numbers—with decimal points—are crucial to the calculations running through the neural networks involved with deep learning.

Apple calls its AI chip, part of the A11 Bionic chip, the Neural Engine. Again, it’s dedicated to machine learning and deep learning tasks—recognizing your face, recognizing your voice, recording animojis, and recognizing what you’re trying to frame in the camera. It can handle some 600 billion operations per second, Apple claims.

App developers can tap into this through Core ML, and easy plug-and-play way of incorporating image recognition and other AI algorithms. Core ML doesn’t require the iPhone X to run, but the Neural Engine handles these types of tasks faster. As with the Huawei chip, the time spend offloading all this data processing to the cloud should be vastly reduced, theoretically improving performance and again lessening the strain on battery life.

And that’s really what these chips are about: Handling the specific types of programming tasks that machine learning, deep learning, and neural networks rely on, on the phone, faster than the CPU or GPU can manage. When Face ID works in a snap, you’ve likely got the Neural Engine to thank.

Is this the future? Will all smartphone inevitably come with dedicated AI chips in future? As the role of artificial intelligence on our handsets grows, the answer is likely yes. Qualcomm chips can already use specific parts of the CPU for specific AI tasks, and separate AI chips is the next step. Right now these chips are only being utilized for a small subsection of tasks, but their importance is going to only grow.

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6 ways to improve your laptop’s battery life on Windows 10

Don’t let your portable PC run out of power. Follow these tips and you’ll get a lot more battery life out of your Windows 10 machine.

Battery life is always a crucial part of any PC, whether it’s old or brand new.

We’ve already explained some techniques to preserve power on Windows 7 but what about Microsoft’s latest addition Windows 10? Thankfully if you’re using the new operating system, there are a number of simple tips that will help you save on power so you can continue using your PC that little bit longer. Watch the video below to see some of the tips in action and follow our guide for more details.

Tip 1: Turn off wi-fi and Bluetooth

Windows 10’s new Action Center makes it easier to switch off connectivity options such as wi-fi and Bluetooth which can drain battery life.

If you don’t need or Bluetooth on all the time, go to the Action Center by clicking the small square icon near the time in the bottom right, and click on Bluetooth to deactivate them so that they’re no longer lit. Older machines may not have Bluetooth, in which case you won’t see that option.

Wi-fi is usually used a lot of the time, but if you don’t need to be online for a while (perhaps if you’re writing a letter using a word processor) you can always click the Wi-fi icon to turn it off, which will save some battery as well.

Alternatively, if you want to switch all connectivity options off for a certain period of time, click Airplane mode and it’ll cut off all connections for you. When you want them back, simply click Airplane mode again.

Tip 2: Turn on Battery Saver

For laptops that aren’t plugged in to a power source, Windows 10’s new Battery Saver is a great way to preserve some of your machine’s juice.

Battery Saver does what its name suggests by reducing screen brightness, stopping push notifications and preventing apps from running in in the background.

Battery Saver is automatically set to kick in whenever your battery falls below 20%, but you can switch it on at any time (if mains power is not connected) from the Action Center.

You can also set Battery Saver to start automatically a bit earlier or later too, by going into the settings menu. Simply search for ‘Battery’ in Cortana and select Change battery saver settings at the bottom.

From here you can adjust the point at which Battery Saver will kick in by moving the scrolling bar.

Tip 3: Turn the sound down

Your PC’s speakers use up a decent amount of power, so turning them down even a little bit could help save some of your battery’s life.

Headphones also use less battery than speakers, so if you can opt for a pair instead, all the better.

Tip 4: Turn screen brightness down

The brightness of your screen is another big battery sucker. You can turn it down a notch or two by searching for ‘Brightness’ in Cortana and clicking on Display settings.

Under ‘Adjust brightness level’, move the scrolling bar down – but make sure it’s still bright enough to use.

Tip 5: Adjust power and sleep settings

Leaving your PC idle is a waste of battery, so make sure you’ve got the best screen and sleep options set-up.

Search ‘Power’ in Cortana and select Power & sleep settings.

Here, you can adjust how long your PC should wait before the screen dims or goes into sleep mode. Select a suitable time that you’re comfortable with from each drop down box.

Tip 6: Unplug any peripherals you’re not using

Got a USB stick plugged in all day but not using it? Remove it! Even if you’re not actively using it yourself, your PC will still be powering it.

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Top tips for shooting video on your smartphone

The phone you carry around all day is also a brilliant video recorder. Here are some basic tips for mastering mobile video.

As Christmas draws closer, many of us will be taking photos and shooting videos on our phones.

Follow our shooting tips to make your home movies even better.

Shooting Tips

Record in landscape

Filming in portrait mode can seem natural because that’s generally how we hold and use our phones. But it’s no good if you want to share it on any online portal or cast it to your TV. That’s because you’ll get vertical black borders surrounding your thin-looking clip.

So shoot in landscape mode – holding the phone is on its side – is essential. You might have to stand a little further from your subject, but it gives you a wider angle to fit more of the scene in your shot.

Keep a steady hand

There’s nothing more distracting than wobbly video, motion blur and out-of-focus subjects. One way to steady your shot is to hold your phone with both hands.

It’ll help you cut the amount of movement – but take care not to cover the lens or the microphone by mistake.

Many high-end smartphones, like the Sony Xperia X, have stabilisation technology to help reduce shake.

Keep movement smooth

Capturing moving subjects isn’t easy. So you’ll need to keep your camera movements smooth. One way to do that is by moving your body rather than just your arms – keep your elbows locked to your side and rotate your body instead. Or try using a tripod.

Take care with zooming

The digital zoom on most smartphone video cameras enlarges the pixels, which can diminish the quality. So try not to use it unless you really need to.

If you can, get closer to your subject instead. The alternative is pixelated, noisy video you won’t want to watch anyway. Have you ever had to sit through a friends’ video shot at a concert? That’s  what you want to avoid.

Experiment to find the best light

It’s important to try to find the best light for your imagery, so move around and make use of natural light if possible. In daylight, try to make sure the sun is lighting your scene rather than shining directly into the lens.

Avoid the flashlight

On most phone cameras, the flash can double up as a light to illuminate subjects when recording video. But it can be too strong and make it look unnatural. So save it for when you can’t find any natural light.

Manually adjust exposure and focus

Many smartphone cameras feature a tap to focus setting and a way to adjust the exposure (controlling how much light the sensor lets in). Both methods can help with lighting your subjects correctly.

On an iPhone, for example, you can long press on the focal point to lock the focus and exposure.

Use the time lapse setting

Most high-end smartphones now have a time lapse setting, which lets you condense several minutes or even hours of footage in to a much shorter clip. This can be a great way to capture interesting road trips, tidal scenes or sunrises and sunsets. Here it’s important to lock the exposure (as we explained above) to make sure the lighting stays consistent.

Protect yourself from the elements

If it’s possible you should use your body to shield your phone from the wind, because it’ll ruin the audio. Position yourself in a way that stops the breeze getting to your phone’s microphone at the bottom of the handset.

Practical tips for your smartphone

Shoot at lower quality

4K and Ultra HD video are becoming more common on our phones. Which is great, but the resulting clips take up much more space on your phone. You can save space by shooting at lower quality.

Don’t eat up all your data

Upload large video files over wi-fi so you don’t use up all your mobile data allowance.

Trim your footage

Most phone cameras offer the ability to whip off the awkward start and end of clips, giving the video a more professional feel.

Use an editing app

You can use a specialised editing app to pull more than one clip together. Many will also let you add fades and transitions as well as a soundtrack. Try Apple’s own iMovie for iOS and KineMaster for Android.

Bring a spare battery

Shooting video does as much to drain battery life as any activity, so come prepared. If your phone has a removable battery, bring a spare. Otherwise, think about investing in a portable battery pack.

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