Top Cold Weather Tips for Laptops

Regular laptops have been designed to work within a safe temperature range – normally 50 to 95 degrees F (10 – 35 degrees C). This range refers both to optimal usage temperature of the outside environment and the temperature the laptop should be warmed to before using. Protecting your laptop from cold weather is important and you should know how to protect your laptop from cold weather. Protect yourself and your laptop from the damage cold weather can cause.

01.Ruggedized Laptops

If your budget allows, purchase or lease a ruggedized laptop if you will be outside in cold temperatures for extended periods of time. Ruggedized laptops have been designed to work under extreme weather conditions. When you rely on your laptop and can’t count on the weather to cooperate – a ruggedized laptop is worth considering. Most ruggedized laptops have been tested according to MIL-STD-810F standards.

02.Careful Storage

Never leave a laptop, even in a well-padded and insulated laptop case in the trunk of vehicle in cold weather. The laptop could freeze and you lose all data contained in it.

03.Let It Warm Up

Once you bring a laptop in from the cold – allow it to warm up to room temperature before booting. The same is true when you go outdoors – allow the laptop to acclimatize to the outside temperature before booting up.

04.Incorrect Warming Methods

Do not use devices such as mug warmers or pocket warmers to heat or keep a laptop warm. They are not designed for this purpose and can create problems as they will not heat or keep a laptop warm in the right way. They could heat the wrong parts of a laptop or cause it to generate too much heat and melt internal components.

05.Laptop Warmers

There are laptop warmers designed specifically for the purpose of keeping a laptop warm and these are what you should use. Laptop warmers have been tested to ensure they will safely protect your laptop and are a wise investment.

06.Excessive Heat Build-Up

Do not use your laptop while it is still inside a laptop bag. There is no room for air to circulate and you will get heat build-up. You can create your own “box” for your laptop which will allow air to circulate and provide an enclosed area for you to use your laptop. Having the laptop on a raised platform for your laptop within the box will aid in airflow. This laptop box will help keep the laptop warmer as cold air is blocked and the heat generated from the laptop is kept in the box.

07.Protecting Your Display

Don’t use heating pads or other external sources of heat to warm up or thaw a laptop display. Allow the display to warm on its own and do not boot up a laptop if you suspect the display is frozen.

08.Stay Out of the Cold

Whenever possible stay out of direct exposure to cold weather conditions by staying in a vehicle, inside a building or other type of shelter. Protecting your laptop from excessive dampness or wet from snow will keep your keyboard from freezing and other problems from developing.

09.Change Power Settings

By changing the power settings from power save mode will help keep the laptop warm as it continues to run. Instead of having the hard drive shut down, keep it spinning. The longer the laptop can be kept left running, the warmer it will stay as it generates its own heat.

10.Don’t Get Creative

Last but by no means least – do not create your own devices to keep your laptop warm! This is especially important if you are using a company owned or leased laptop. You will be responsible for any damage caused and will have to have it repaired or replaced at your own expense.

Home networking: Everything you need to know

When it comes to home networking, there’s a soup of technical terms, LAN, WAN, broadband, Wi-Fi, CAT5e, just to name a few. If you’re having a hard time with these basic terms, you’re reading the right post. Here I’ll (try to) explain them all so that you can have a better understanding of your home network and hopefully a better control of your online life. There’s a lot to explain so this long post is just the first of an evolving series.

Advanced and experienced users likely won’t need this, but for the rest, I’d recommend reading the whole thing. So take your time, but in case you want to jump to a quick answer, feel free to search for what you want to know and chances are you will find it within this post.

  1. Wired networking

A wired local network is basically a group of devices connected to one another using network cables, more often than not with the help of a router, which brings us to the very first thing you should know about your network.

Router: This is the central device of a home network into which you can plug one end of a network cable. The other end of the cable goes into a networking device that has a network port. If you want to add more network devices to a router, you’ll need more cables and more ports on the router. These ports, both on the router and on the end devices, are called Local Area Network (LAN) ports. They are also known as RJ45 ports or Ethernet ports. The moment you plug a device into a router, you have yourself a wired network. Networking devices that come with an RJ45 network port are called Ethernet-ready devices. More on this below.

Note: Technically, you can skip the router and connect two computers directly together using one network cable to form a network of two. However, this requires manually configuring the IP addresses, or using a special crossover cable, for the connection to work. You don’t really want to do that.

LAN ports: A home router usually has four LAN ports, meaning that, straight out of the box, it can host a network of up to four wired networking devices. If you want to have a larger network, you will need to resort to a switch (or a hub), which adds more LAN ports to the router. Generally a home router can connect up to about 250 networking devices, and the majority of homes and even small businesses don’t need more than that.

There are currently two main speed standards for LAN ports: Ethernet (also called Fast Ethernet,) which caps at 100 megabits per second (or about 13 megabytes per second), and Gigabit Ethernet, which caps at 1 gigabit per second (or about 150 MBps). In other words, it takes about a minute to transfer a CD’s worth of data (around 700 MB or about 250 digital songs) over an Ethernet connection. With Gigabit Ethernet, the same job takes about five seconds. In real life, the average speed of an Ethernet connection is about 8 MBps, and of a Gigabit Ethernet connection is somewhere between 45 and 100 MBps. The actual speed of a network connection depends on many factors, such as the end devices being used, the quality of the cable and the amount of traffic.

In short, LAN ports on a router allow Ethernet-ready devices to connect to one another and share data.

In order for them to also access the internet, the router needs to have a Wide Area Network (WAN) port. On many routers, this port may also be labeled the internet port.

Switch vs. hub: A hub and a switch both add more LAN ports to an existing network. They help increase the number of Ethernet-ready clients that a network can host. The main difference between hubs and switches is a hub uses one shared channel for all of its ports, while a switch has a dedicated channel for each one. This means the more clients you connect to a hub, the slower the data rate gets for each client, whereas with a switch the speed doesn’t change according to the number of connected clients. For this reason, hubs are much cheaper than switches with the same number of ports.

However, hubs are largely obsolete now, since the cost of switches has come down significantly. The price of a switch generally varies based on its standard (regular Ethernet or Gigabit Ethernet, with the latter being more expensive), and the number of ports (the more ports, the higher the price).

You can find a switch with just four or up to 48 ports (or even more). Note that the total of extra wired clients you can add to a network is equal to the switch’s total number of ports minus one. For example, a four-port switch will add another three clients to the network. This is because you need to use one of the ports to connect the switch itself to the network, which, by the way, also uses another port of the existing network. With this in mind, make sure you buy a switch with significantly more ports than the number of clients you intend to add to the network.

Wide-area network (WAN) port: Also known as the internet port. Generally, a router has just one WAN port. (Some business routers come with dual WAN ports, so one can use two separate internet services at a time.) On any router, the WAN port will be separated from the LAN ports, and is often distinguished by being a different color. A WAN port is used to connect to an internet source, such as a broadband modem. The WAN allows the router to connect to the internet and share that connection with all the Ethernet-ready devices connected to it.

Broadband modem: Often called a DSL modem or cable modem, a broadband modem is a device that bridges the internet connection from a service provider to a computer or to a router, making the internet available to consumers. Generally, a modem has one LAN port (to connect to a router’s WAN port, or to an Ethernet-ready device) and one service-related port, such as a telephone port (DSL modems) or a coaxial port (cable modems), that connects to the service line. If you have just a modem, you’ll be able to connect just one Ethernet-ready device, such as a computer, to the internet. To hook up more than one device to the internet, you will need a router. Providers tend to offer a combo device that’s a combination of a modem and a router or wireless router, all in one.

Network cables: These are the cables used to connect network devices to a router or a switch. They are also known as Category 5 cables, or CAT5 cables. Currently, most CAT5 cables on the market are actually CAT5e, which are capable of delivering Gigabit Ethernet data speeds (1,000 Mbps). The latest network cabling standard currently in use is CAT6, which is designed to be faster and more reliable than CAT5e. The difference between the two is the wiring inside the cable and at both ends of it. CAT5e and CAT6 cables can be used interchangeably, and in my personal experience their performance is essentially the same. For most home usage, what CAT5e has to offer is more than enough. In fact, you probably won’t notice any difference if you switch to CAT6, but it doesn’t hurt to use CAT6 if you can afford it to be future-proof. Also, network cables are the same, no matter how they shape, round or flat.

Now that we’re clear on wired networks, let’s move on to a wireless network.

  1. Wireless networking

A wireless network is very similar to a wired network with one big difference: Devices don’t use cables to connect to the router and one another. Instead, they use radio wireless connections called Wi-Fi (Wireless Fidelity), which is a friendly name for the 802.11 networking standards supported by the Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE). Wireless networking devices don’t need to have ports, just antennas, which are sometimes hidden inside the device itself. In a typical home network, there are generally both wired and wireless devices, and they can all talk to one another. In order to have a Wi-Fi connection, there needs to be an access point and a Wi-Fi client.

Basic terms

Access point: An access point (AP) is a central device that broadcasts a Wi-Fi signal for Wi-Fi clients to connect to. Generally, each wireless network, like those you see popping up on your phone’s screen as you walk around a big city, belongs to one access point. You can buy an AP separately and connect it to a router or a switch to add Wi-Fi support to a wired network, but generally, you want to buy a wireless router, which is a regular router (one WAN port, multiple LAN ports and so on) with a built-in access point. Some routers even come with more than one access point (see discussion of dual-band and tri-band routers below).

Wi-Fi client: A Wi-Fi client or WLAN client is a device that can detect the signal broadcast by an access point, connect to it and maintain the connection. All recent laptops, phones and tablets on the market come with built-in Wi-Fi capability. Older devices and desktop computers that don’t can be upgraded to that via a USB or PCIe Wi-Fi adapter. Think of a Wi-Fi client as a device that has an invisible network port and an invisible network cable. This metaphorical cable is as long as the range of a Wi-Fi signal broadcast by an access point.

Note: The type of Wi-Fi connection mentioned above is established in the Infrastructure mode, which is the most popular mode in real-life usage. Technically, you can skip an access point and make two Wi-Fi clients connect directly to each other, in the Adhoc mode. However, as with using a crossover network cable, this is rather complicated and inefficient.

Wi-Fi range: This is the radius an access point’s Wi-Fi signal can reach. Typically, a good Wi-Fi network is most viable within about 150 feet from the access point. This distance, however, changes based on the power of the devices involved, the environment and (most importantly) the Wi-Fi standard. The Wi-Fi standard also determines how fast a wireless connection can be and is the reason Wi-Fi gets complicated and confusing, especially when considering the fact there are multiple Wi-Fi frequency bands.

Frequency bands: These bands are the radio frequencies used by the Wi-Fi standards: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. The 2.4 GHz and 5 Ghz bands are currently the most popular, collectively being used in all existing network devices. Generally, the 5 Ghz band delivers faster data rates but a little less range than the 2.4 Ghz band. Note that a 60 GHz band is also used but only by the 802.11ad standard, which is not yet commercially available.

Depending on the standard, some Wi-Fi devices use either the 2.4 GHz or the 5 GHz band, while others that use both of these are called dual-band devices.

Wi-Fi standards

Wi-Fi standards decide the speed and range of a Wi-Fi network. Generally later standards are backward compatible with earlier ones.

802.11b: This was the first commercialized wireless standard. It offers a top speed of 11 Mbps and operates only on the 2.4 GHz frequency band. The standard was first available in 1999 and is now totally obsolete; 802.11b clients, however, are still supported by access points of later Wi-Fi standards.

802.11a: Similar to 802.11b in terms of age, 802.11a offers a speed cap of 54 Mbps at the expense of much shorter range, and uses the 5 GHz band. It’s also now obsolete, though it’s still supported by new access points for backward compatibility.

802.11g: Introduced in 2003, the 802.11g standard marked the first time wireless networking was called Wi-Fi. The standard offers the top speed of 54 Mbps but operates on the 2.4 GHz band, hence permitting better range than the 802.11a standard. It’s used by many older mobile devices, such as the iPhone 3G and the iPhone 3Gs. This standard is supported by access points of later standards. 802.11g is also becoming obsolete.

802.11n or Wireless-N: Available since 2009, 802.11n has been the most popular Wi-Fi standard, with lots of improvements over the previous ones, such as making the range of the 5 GHz band more comparable to that of the 2.4 GHz band. The standard operates on both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands and started a new era of dual-band routers, which accommodate two access points, one for each band. There are two types of dual-band routers: selectable dual-band routers (now defunct) that can operate in one band at a time and true dual-band routers that simultaneously transmit Wi-Fi signals on both bands.

On each band, the Wireless-N standard is available in three setups, depending on the number of spatial streams being used: single-stream (1×1), dual-stream (2×2) and three-stream (3×3), offering cap speeds of 150 Mbps, 300 Mbps and 450 Mbps, respectively. This in turns creates three types of true dual-band routers: N600 (each of the two bands offers a 300 Mbps speed cap), N750 (one band has a 300 Mbps speed cap while the other caps at 450 Mbps) and N900 (each of the two bands allows up to 450 Mbps cap speed).

Note: In order to create a Wi-Fi connection, both the access point (router) and the client need to operate on the same frequency band. For example, a 2.4 GHz client, such as an iPhone 4, won’t be able to connect to a 5 GHz access point. Also, a Wi-Fi connection takes place on just one band at a time. If you have a dual-band capable client (such as the iPhone 6) with a dual-band router, the two will connect on just one band, likely the 5 Ghz.

802.11ac: Sometimes referred to as 5G Wi-Fi, this latest Wi-Fi standard operates only on the 5 GHz frequency band and currently offers Wi-Fi speeds of up to 2,167 Mbps (or even faster with latest chip) when used in the quad-stream (4×4) setup. The standard also comes with the 3×3, 2×2, 1×1 setups that cap at 1,300 Mbps, 900 Mbps and 450 Mbps, respectively.

Technically, each spatial stream of the 802.11ac standard is about four times faster than that of the 802.11n (or Wireless-N) standard, and therefore is much better for battery life (since it has to work less to deliver the same amount of data). In real-world testing so far, with the same amount of streams, I’ve found that 802.11ac is about three times the speed of Wireless-N, which is still very good. (Note that the real-world sustained speeds of wireless standards are always much lower than the theoretical speed cap. This is partly because the cap speed is determined in controlled, interference-free environments.) The fastest peak real-world speed of an 802.11ac connection I’ve seen so far is around 90 MBps (or 720 Mbps), which is close to that of a Gigabit Ethernet wired connection.

On the same 5 GHz band, 802.11ac devices are backward-compatible with Wireless-N and 802.11a devices. While 802.11ac is not available on the 2.4 GHz band, for compatibility purposes, an 802.11ac router can also serve as a Wireless-N access point. That said, all 802.11ac chips on the market support both 802.11ac and 802.11n Wi-Fi standards.

802.11ad or WiGig: First introduced in 2009, the 802.11ad wireless networking standard became part of the Wi-Fi ecosystem at CES 2013. Prior to that, it was considered a different type of wireless networking. 2016 marked the year when the first 802.11ad router, the TP-Link Talon AD7200, became available.

Operating in the 60 Ghz frequency band, the 802.11ad Wi-Fi standard has an extremely high speed — up to 7 Gbps — but a disappointingly short range (about one-tenth of 802.11ac.) It can’t penetrate walls very well, either. For this reason, the new standard is a supplement to the existing 802.11ac standard and is intended for devices that sit within a close proximity of the router.

It’s an ideal wireless solution for devices at a close range, with a clear line of sight (no obstacles in between) such as between a laptop and its base-station, or a set-top box and a big screen TV. All 802.11ad routers will also work as 802.11ac routers and support all existing Wi-Fi clients, but only 802.11ad devices can connect to the router at high speed over the 60 Ghz band.

802.11ax: This is the next generation of Wi-Fi, set to supersede 802.11ac. Like 802.11ac, the new 802.11ax is backward compatible with previous Wi-Fi generations. However, it’s the first standard that focuses not only on faster speed but also on Wi-Fi efficiency, especially in crowded air space. In other words, 802.11ax aims to maintain network capacity even during less than ideal conditions. Ultimately, this means it allows for higher ratio of real-world speed versus theoretical ceiling speed. It’s also said to reduce energy consumption by two thirds compared to 802.11ac, which is great news for mobile users.

On paper, 802.11ax can be four times faster than 802.11ac, up to some 5 Gbps. Also, an 802.11ax router can boost existing pre-802.11ax Wi-Fi devices’ real-world speeds thanks to its ability to manage traffic diversity in dense, overlapping networks. 2017 is the year that networking chip makers, such as Qualcomm, introduced their first 802.11ax chips. That said, consumer devices that support 802.11ax are predicted to be available by the end of 2017 or early 2018.

8 quick ways to clear up drive space in Windows 10

Bumping up against your PC’s physical storage limit? Here’s how to grab a couple gigs’ worth of space.

Face it: No matter how large your hard drive is — how many empty terabytes you had when you first bought your PC — you always seem to fill it right to the brink.

If you’re bumping up against your PC’s physical storage limit, there are some quick tricks you can use to reclaim a couple of gigs. But these options will only take you so far — if you need a lot of space, you may need to upgrade your hardware or consider deleting a few of those raw image files.

Empty the Recycle Bin

When you delete items, like files and photos, from your PC, they don’t immediately get deleted. Instead, they sit in the Recycle Bin and continue to take up valuable hard-drive space. To empty the Recycle Bin, go to your desktop, right-click on the Recycle Bin and click Empty Recycle Bin. You will see a warning pop-up asking if you are sure you want to permanently delete your Recycle Bin items. Click Yes to proceed.

Disk Cleanup

Windows has a built-in disk cleanup utility (aptly named Disk Cleanup) that can help you clear up space by removing various files — including temporary internet files, system error memory dump files, and even previous Windows installations that may still be hanging out from your recent move to Windows 10.

You can find Disk Cleanup in the Start menu, under All apps > Windows Administrative Tools > Disk Cleanup. Select the drive you want to clean up and hit OK, then wait while Disk Cleanup calculates how much space you can free up. If you want to delete system files, such as the Windows.old folder (which holds your previous installations of Windows, and can be several GB in size), click Cleanup system files.

Delete temporary and downloaded files

You can delete temporary files without running Disk Cleanup, along with files you downloaded that you may no longer need. Go to Settings > System and click on Storage on the left panel. Next, click This PC at the top and then click Temporary files from the list. Check the boxes for Temporary files and Downloads folder (and Empty recycle bin while you’re at it) and then click the Remove files button.

Turn on Storage Sense

If you have updated to Windows 10 Creators Update, then let Windows help out with freeing up disk space. Head back to the Storage page in Settings and toggle on Storage sense. Now, Windows will automatically delete unused temporary files, as well as files that have been in the Recycle Bin for more than 30 days. I’m pretty good with emptying the Recycle Bin on something approaching a regular schedule, but I’m also very happy to have Windows track down and eradicate needless temp files.

Save files to a different drive

If your computer has multiple hard drives or a partitioned hard drive, you may find yourself running out of space on one drive (or partition). Luckily, you can fix this by changing your default save locations for apps, documents, music, pictures, and videos. To do this, open the Settings menu and go to System > Storage. Under Save locations, select a different drive for each of the categories. You can select any drive — even a removable drive, like a USB flash drive or a memory card — that is connected to your PC.

Disable hibernate

Instead of shutting down your computer completely, you can put it in hibernate — a quasi-shutdown state that allows you to startup faster. When your computer goes into hibernate, it saves a snapshot of your files and drivers before shutting down, and this takes up space. If starting up quickly isn’t your priority, you can reclaim some valuable hard drive space by disabling hibernate altogether, because the hiberfil.sys file takes up 75 percent of your PC’s installed RAM. This means that if you have 8GB of RAM, you can clear up 6GB instantly by disabling hibernate.

Here’s our complete guide on disabling (or re-enabling) hibernate in Windows 10. One caveat: If you disable hibernate, you will not be able to use Windows 10’s fast startup feature.

Uninstall apps

You probably have some apps and programs on your PC that you don’t use — either apps you’ve installed and forgotten about, or bloatware that came preinstalled on your computer from the manufacturer. To find out which apps are taking up space, open the Settings menu and go to System > Apps & features and choose Sort by size. To uninstall an app from this menu, click the app and then click Uninstall.

If you’re running legacy programs on Windows 10, you may not see them in this list (some appear, but some do not). To find these programs, right-click the Start button and click Control Panel. Go to Programs and Features to see a list of the legacy programs on your computer (you can also sort this list by program size). To uninstall a program from this list, left-click it to select it and click Uninstall.

Windows 10’s default apps — like the Maps app, OneNote app, and Photos app — don’t take up a lot of space, but they do take up some space.

Store files in the cloud — and only in the cloud

If you take advantage of cloud storage via OneDrive or another service, you’re probably double-storing files and photos. Well, you don’t have to do this — all cloud storage services allow you to select which folders are actually downloaded and saved to your PC (as well as in the cloud).

Right-click on the OneDrive icon in your system tray and choose Settings. In the Account tab, next to Choose folders to sync to this device, click Choose folders. Select the folders you want to sync (read: save directly) to your device, and deselect any folders you do not want to sync to your device. When you’re finished selecting or deselecting folders, click OK. The folders you did not select to sync to your device will be removed from your hard drive, freeing up space. You will still be able to access the files in these folders from the OneDrive site in any Web browser; they just won’t be saved on your hard drive.

Top Ways to Boost WiFi Signals & Improve Performance

Equipped with a wireless router from your ISP, most WiFi networks are usually fairly efficient. For at-home setups, a quality router will usually be more than enough to run a decent network. After all, even your close neighbors can normally see your wireless network. Of course, there are some exceptions.

If you live in a very large house or your ISP installed your router in a strange location like your closet, your WiFi signal may not reach every part of the house adequately. When it comes to streaming media, a weak WiFi signal result in extreme lag and choppy videos.

Luckily, there are several things that you can do to help boost WiFi signal strength. Here are some of my top recommendations for improving weak WiFi. Note that this article focuses on WiFi specifically and not on your Internet connection.

Use Latest WiFi Protocol

Wireless AC has pretty much become the standard, but if you have not yet upgraded to a Wireless AC router and are still using Wireless G or N, you may want to consider upgrading. Wireless AC has proven to be a much more capable technology that not only produces greater WiFi range, but improved and more consistent signal strength as well.

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Of course, a Wireless AC router will be most efficient with Wireless AC devices.  If you are using a newer device with a built-in wireless card, such as a laptop, check to see what wireless protocol it supports.

It’s also worth noting that after AC, there will be AD, AH, AJ, AX and so on. You don’t always have to be using the latest protocol, but you also don’t want to be several protocols behind. Wireless N and AC also support MIMO, which allows for multiple antennas.

Get a Dual-Band Router

You may have noticed that some routers offer a feature called dual band. This means that it supports both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz networks. So what’s the difference? 5 GHz allows for much greater speeds than 2.4 GHz, but over a shorter distance.

A dual band router can be helpful because you’ll get faster speeds when you are closer to the router, but you can switch to the 2.4 GHz network when you are farther away since 2.4 GHz signals can travel farther and penetrate more walls. Unfortunately, you mostly have to manually switch between these two networks.

Call Your ISP

Since most people use the default router given to them by their ISP, it’s a good idea to make sure you have the best one they have to offer. Most ISPs will install a cheaper router with less speeds and less features and then try to get you to upgrade later.

If you are getting service connected, you can usually make them give you the best router before you sign up with them. If you are already a customer, you can always try to threaten to leave. Unfortunately, to get a better router, you normally will have to pay a monthly cost or buy it upfront.

However, if you buy the router upfront, never buy it from the ISP. Instead go to Amazon or eBay and buy it from there. You can always call out a technician to come and install the router, if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself.

Use a Cable Signal Booster

If you have cable internet, several factors can play into the actual cable signal strength coming from the cable company to your home. If you live in a busy neighborhood with many households, the actual cable power that your home receives may not be optimal. Aside from this, things like splitters that allow for a cable outlet in every room tend to weaken the signal, and the more splitters you have, the weaker the signal will become.

A cable signal booster can help give your home WiFi network the best possible signal by acting as an amplifier. Basically, these devices look and work just like normal coaxial splitters. However, they are engineered to distribute cable signals in the most efficient manner. Cable signal boosters will also improve the signal strength to your television.

Optimize Router & Update Firmware

This one is pretty much a given, but it’s always best to have the most up to date firmware for your wireless router. As technology changes, firmware updates are needed to keep the router running at peak performance.

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You should also tweak the settings on your router for maximum output. For example, if you are getting a lot of interference, you may want to switch channels. Most of the time it is set to Auto, but sometimes it’s worth manually configuring. It is best to consult a router’s user manual for firmware and settings tips.

Re-position the Router

For best WiFi coverage, a wireless router should be placed in a central location within a home. It should also be positioned not too close to the floor, but not too close to the ceiling either. WiFi signals travel in a lateral pattern, and most of the time, WiFi devices, such as laptops are used at midpoint within a home. For example, you usually sit on the couch when using a laptop; you don’t lay on the floor (most of the time), and you do not stand on a ladder.

Use a Multi Router Network Setup

All the methods mentioned above still won’t help you if you live in a very large home and the distances are simply too great, even for the latest wireless protocol with MIMO technology. In these types of cases, you probably need to setup a second router.

This can come in the form of a wireless extender/repeater, wireless bridge, or simply a second wireless router. I’ve already written about setting up a second separate network using a second wireless router, but you can also add a second router to the same network.

For example, if you have Verizon FIOS, you can purchase another identical router and configure it as a MoCA LAN bridge. You can configure the second router with the same wireless SSID and password, so devices will connect to whichever router is closer.

Purchase a WiFi System

These days, there are a lot of companies selling WiFi systems. These are basically wireless mesh networks. They include multiple identical routers that you connect in different locations in your home.

The main advantage these systems is that they configure themselves and talk to each other automatically. This makes them really easy to setup and you can add as many devices as you want to keep extending the range of your wireless network.

Eero is one example of a WiFi system. It comes with three access points for about $500. You can control and configure everything via an app and it takes half an hour to set it all up. Of course, you lose all the flexibility and control that you have when you purchase a traditional router.

Another company that I know is popular is Open-Mesh. Luckily, consumers can buy it too and it works just fine for residential purposes. Again, these are much more expensive solutions, but you’ll be one happy camper at the end of the day.

Add a WiFi Booster Antenna

Depending on the exact model of your WiFi router, it may be compatible with an add-on WiFi booster antenna. WiFi antennas seem to have a varying degree of mixed reviews from purchasers, but for approximately 50% of people, they are worth the purchase. WiFi booster antennas work with the same concept that retractable antennas on old boom boxes work. While the default antenna may be built-in or minimal, a standalone WiFi antenna may help improve WiFi network signals.

Use Powerline Adapter

For some people, you just can’t get a wireless signal into a certain area of the house. Maybe the wall is made of a material that blocks WiFi and therefore nothing but a direct cable connection would work. You can always try to drop a network or coax line to that location, but if that’s not feasible, then a Powerline adapter might be a good alternative.

Speeds are nothing to write home about, but it’s definitely better than nothing. You basically plug them into the wall, one where your router is and one where you need an Ethernet connection. Most have just one Ethernet port, but some like the Actiontec one above, have several ports to connect multiple devices.

Turn Off Other Devices

If you are a heavy gadget user and have tons of devices connected all around your home like cameras, phones, monitors, IOT devices, etc., it might be worth turning some things off to see if there is some kind of interference.

Other appliances like microwaves can also cause interference, so try to keep your router away from any other electronic gadget.

Everything You Wanted to Know About Wireless Charging

Years after it first appeared, wireless charging has finally arrived on the iPhone—but what is this magical charging method that’s been on other big phones for a couple of years now? And is it really all that superior to just plugging your phone into the wall every night? Here’s what you need to know about wireless charging, and the kit you need to make it work.

How wireless charging works

The key to wireless (or inductive) charging are electromagnetic fields, used to transfer energy from one place (a charging mat) to another (your phone) through the magic of electromagnetic induction.

Essentially you’ve got two physical coils, one which converts energy into an electromagnetic field that can travel wirelessly, and one which converts that floating field back into energy again—the two coils form a transformer. That’s why the wireless charging cat was out of the bag as soon as a coil was spotted in leaked schematics for the iPhone 8.

If your phone doesn’t support wireless charging out of the box, you can often get a case or adapter that takes care of all of the necessary power transfer processes and feeds the juice straight into the handset—you don’t have to miss out on the wireless charging. Considering wireless charging pads are usually optional extras anyway, you can just add another adapter to your basket.

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We’ll get on to standards in a moment, but in addition to the popular magnetic induction method we’ve explained above, you also need to know about the magnetic resonance method—in essence, it’s not all that different, but it increases charging distances, makes it easier for multiple devices to charge up at once on the same charger, and can work through more, and thicker, materials.

For most smartphone owners, that’s as much as you’ll need to know, but pay attention to the quoted voltage of your phone and your charger—the charging speed will be limited by whichever is the slower, and it’ll usually be significantly slower than plugging your phone into a wall. That said, you should also bear in mind that these specs and standards are improving all the time, as the technology gets more efficient, and the prices of the required components come down.

Wireless charging standards

As we said at the outset, wireless charging has been with us for years, in everything from electric toothbrushes to the Nokia Lumia 820 from 2012. Of course, tech wouldn’t be tech without a few differing and incompatible standards to stay abreast of.

The big one, as far as wireless charging goes—the one supported by most phones and the new iPhones—is Qi (pronounced “chee”) charging. Qi is developed by the Wireless Power Consortium, and its 247 members include the likes of Apple, Google, Samsung and just about every other big name in electronics manufacturing. The latest phones from Apple, Samsung and LG all have Qi built in.

The other main contender is AirFuel, formed from a partnership between the Alliance for Wireless Power and the Power Matters Alliance. Like Qi, the standard supports both magnetic induction and magnetic resonance, but its implemented in a slightly different way, so the two technologies aren’t compatible with each other (you can’t charge up a Qi-enabled phone on a AirFuel-enabled mat).

AirFuel (previously known as Powermat) isn’t as widespread as Qi, but some major handsets support it (the Galaxy S8 family can work with both Qi and AirFuel), and it’s the wireless charging technology that Starbucks has installed at its outlets—although the coffee seller is now adding Qi support as well.

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As long as you buy accessories using the same standard as your smartphone, you can’t go far wrong, but if you’re wondering why you’ve put your iPhone X down on an AirFuel charging pad at Starbucks and it’s not working, now you know.

What you need for wireless charging

Despite the complex technologies underpinning wireless charging, and the competing standards fighting it out for market share, it’s not that difficult to figure out what you need to set up your own wireless charging solution—check the standard supported by your phone, get an accessory to match, and you’re away.

Plenty of phones now support the Qi standard, including newer models from LG and Samsung, and the new iPhones. Meanwhile, AirFuel wireless charging is available in this year’s LG G6, all the Samsung Galaxy phones of recent years, and some less well-known models. If you’re desperate to use the technology, you can invest in a power ring that slots into the bottom of your phone and enables it to be charged up by any AirFuel charger.

It’s not quite so essential to buy official accessories from the same company that makes your phone when it comes to wireless charging: All Qi-enabled chargers will work with all Qi-enabled handsets, for example, so take your pick. As we mentioned earlier though, double-check the maximum power ratings—you really want your phone and charger to match, otherwise one will be holding the other back.

Apple being Apple, it’s bringing out its own bespoke charging mat called AirPower, which is based on Qi technology. It will charge up any 2017 iPhone, your AirPods (as long as they’re in Apple’s official charging case), and the Apple Watch Series 3 (though not the Series 1 or 2). It’s not clear exactly how AirPower builds on Qi—it has some special features like multiple (Apple) device support, and charging status indicators across all your devices—but you can also charge your iPhone 8, iPhone 8 Plus, and iPhone X on any standard Qi-enabled mat if you prefer.

Samsung, for its part, also offers a “fast charging” wireless pad based around Qi technology—it charges up compatible Samsung phones faster in return for running hotter, something that’s mitigated with an integrated fan. With Samsung’s handsets supporting Qi and AirFuel tech too, you’ve got plenty of choice.

The pros and cons of wireless charging

Just dropping your phone on a mat (or piece of furniture) is obviously more convenient than hunting around for a wire and then fixing it in place, and convenience is the biggest reason to use wireless charging over the cabled alternative.

It has its downsides though: You can’t really use your phone very easily while it’s charging (not yet, anyway), and the charging is slower than it is when your phone is plugged in. Magnetic induction charging is faster than magnetic resonance, but as we’ve mentioned your two devices also need to be closer and more exactly aligned.

That might not sound the most resounding endorsement of wireless charging, but once you actually get to use it, that extra convenience can really pay off—buy two or three pads, and any time your phone isn’t in your hand, it can be charging, at home or the office or in the car. If you need to take a call or check a text, you can pick it right up and set it right back down without yanking out a cable or tripping yourself up.

Now that both Samsung and Apple have embraced wireless charging (over to you, Google), the technology should advance at an even greater rate than we’ve already seen, and that means wireless charging that’s more ubiquitous and that closes the gap in terms of speed and voltage on wired charging.

Take for example the Pi Charger, due to launch next year, which is promising to charge devices as soon as they get close, thanks to specially tuned magnetic fields. As companies figure out ways to make wireless charging even more useful and even more frictionless, it’s finally set to become the new norm for smartphones—after a very long run up.

5 Incredibly Stupid Security Mistakes You Make Every Day

While you can never be 100 percent safe from hackers, viruses, and other nasties lurking on the internet without going completely off the grid, you can at least cut out the dumbest security mistakes you keep making—seriously, now’s the time to address these, before you have a chance to regret it.

1) Using the same login details forever

You’ve heard it before but we’ll say it again, because a lot of people don’t seem to pay any attention: Do not use the same passwords for multiple accounts, and change your passwords regularly. If you struggle to remember passwords, get an app to do it for you.

Using the same password for everything is like having a back door key that also opens your safe, starts your car, and gives access to your bank accounts—if someone should happen across it, they have access to everything.

Changing passwords, meanwhile, protects you against the now-regular data leaks happening from companies large and small. If your login credentials appear on the web, it doesn’t matter so much if you’ve since changed them.

“Password-cracking technology has advanced by leaps and bounds,” said Darren Guccione, CEO of Keeper Security. “Bad guys now follow their victims on social networks to mine keywords that they feed into malicious programs that use machine intelligence to test variations until the door is unlocked.”

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“No one likes passwords, but they are more important than ever these days,” he continued. “And the ones that worked for you five years ago are probably useless today.”

2) Not protecting your phone’s lock screen

Once someone gets past the lock screen on your phone, they can post to Facebook, read your emails, spam your contacts, and probably order a host of electronic goods from Amazon as well. Still, as many as 15 percent of users still don’t protect their phone with either a PIN or some biometric method of identification.

There’s now a wealth of face and fingerprint and iris scanning technology on the market, so there’s no excuse for not using it—and a lengthy PIN code is still just as secure (as long as you’re not entering it in full view of someone else).

Something you should definitely avoid is pattern unlock, which is easier to copy, according to a recent study from the US Naval Academy and the University of Maryland Baltimore County. The research showed that two-thirds of people can recreate a pattern having spied on you doing it once through, compared with a six-digit PIN that only 1 in 10 participants were able to copy after a single look.

“To protect against shoulder surfing, 6-length Android unlock patterns may appear more secure, but our findings show that 6-digit PINs provide the most security for an observer trying to accurately recreate the passcode,” Ravi Kuber from the University of Maryland Baltimore County, one of the researchers working on the study, told Gizmodo.

3) Not using two-step authentication

We’ve already spoken about how often passwords and login details seem to leak out on the web these days, and two-step essentially puts an extra protective barrier in the way—as well as your username, and password, hackers need another bit of info to log into your account on a new, unrecognized device.

That’s sometimes a code generated in an app and sometimes an SMS sent to your trusted phone, but whatever the method, it makes your accounts a whole lot more secure.

Just about anywhere you can get an account now offers some kind of two-factor protection: Facebook, Twitter, Google, Apple, Microsoft, Instagram, Dropbox, Amazon… the list goes on and on. The method for setting it up in each case is fairly obvious and straightforward—just dive into your security settings.

“If you are just browsing online or watching an item on an online auction, you won’t need multifactor authentication,” Raj Samani, Fellow and Chief Scientist at McAfee, told Gizmodo. “However, if you are buying that item, it’s a whole different story because you are now sharing financial data. You need the right level of security based on the value of the account.”

“Hackers find it much less appealing to try to hack a personal account that’s been safeguarded with multifactor authentication, because it won’t be simple.”

4) Sharing too much information

Any information you share publicly on the web can be used to steal your identity, guess your passwords, or answer the security questions protecting your account—from an Instagram photo showing your street to a tweet about your dog whose name you’ve also used for your security question.

Of course sharing is the norm now—only people of a certain age will remember how strange (and potentially dangerous) it felt to share photos on Facebook when the feature first rolled out. Still, there’s no reason why you can’t think before you post.

That means geotagging only when necessary (and when away from your home or office), keeping real names and personal details down to a minimum, and familiarizing yourself with the tools you can use to restrict the audience for your posts.

“It is imperative to understand how you can restrict what someone else can find out about you online,” David Emm, principal security researcher at Kaspersky Lab, told Gizmodo. “Kaspersky Lab research shows that almost a third of people using social networks share their posts, check-ins and other personal information, not just with their friends, but with everybody who is online.”

“If you wouldn’t publish something on the front page of a daily newspaper, don’t post it online.”

5) Using wi-fi without thinking

It’s all too tempting just to connect to whatever public wi-fi networks you can find to stay up to speed with Snapchat, Twitter, and Gizmodo, but you should never let your thirst for connectivity cloud your judgment about what’s safe and what isn’t.

The trouble with public wi-fi is that everyone else can connect to it as well as you, and that makes it inherently less secure than your home network. If you absolutely have to use wi-fi on the go, the safest way to get online away from home is to invest in a quality VPN package and create your own encrypted route to the web.

If you don’t want the expense and hassle of a VPN, there are still safety measures you can take: Check the terms and conditions for getting online, stick to services you’ve already registered for rather than signing up for new ones (where possible), avoid doing anything important on public wi-fi (like banking or emailing), and look for the HTTPS icon before entering any sensitive information.

“Public wi-fi is an especially convenient choice for being always on, and is a great alternative to using up our phone data,” said Marty P. Kamden, CMO at NordVPN. “However, public free wi-fi is not safe.”

“Hackers and other malicious organizations are always on the lookout for gaps in security they can exploit: Public wi-fi for them is a goldmine if you’re not using the right protective measures to keep your data safe.”

WHAT IS AI? HISTORY, DEFINITIONS AND APPLICATIONS

Everyone is talking about artificial intelligence, also known in its abbreviated form, AI. But what is it all about? That’s precisely what we’ll be explaining today.

History

Artificial intelligence is increasingly playing a greater role in our lives, and the latest trend are AI chips and the accompanying smartphone applications. But this technology began to be developed as early as in the 50s with the Dartmouth Summer Research Project on Artificial Intelligence at Dartmouth College in the U.S. Its origins date back even further to the work of Alan Turing—to whom we can attribute the famous Turing test—, Allen Newell and Herbert A. Simon, but AI did not make it into the spotlight on the world stage until the arrival of chess supercomputer Deep Blue by IBM, which was the first machine to defeat the then-defending world chess champion Garry Kasparov in a match in 1996. AI algorithms have been used in data centers and on large computers for many years, but is only more recently present in the realm of consumer electronics.

Definition of artificial intelligence

The definition of artificial intelligence characterizes it as a branch of computer science that deals with automating intelligent behavior. Here’s the hard part: Since you cannot precisely define intelligence per se, artificial intelligence cannot be exactly defined either. Generally speaking, the term is used to describe systems whose objective is to use machines to emulate and simulate human intelligence and the corresponding behavior. This can be accomplished with simple algorithms and pre-defined patterns, but can become far more complex as well.

Various kinds of AI

Symbolic or symbol-manipulating AI works with abstract symbols that are used to represent knowledge. It is the classic AI that pursues the idea that human thinking can be reconstructed on a hierarchical, logical level. Information is processed from above, working with human-readable symbols, abstract connections and logical conclusions.

Neural AI became popular in computer science in the late 80s. Here, knowledge is not represented through symbols, but rather artificial neurons and their connections—sort of like a reconstructed brain. The gathered knowledge is broken down into small pieces—the neurons—and then connected and built into groups. This approach is known as the bottom-up method that works its way from below. Unlike symbolic AI, a neural system must be trained and stimulated so that the neural networks can gather experience and grow, therefore accumulating greater knowledge.

Neural networks are organized into layers that are connected to each other via simulated lines. The uppermost layer is the input layer, which works like a sensor that accepts the information to be processed and passes it on below. This is now followed by at least two—or more than twenty in large systems—layers that are hierarchically above each other and that send and classify information via the connections. At the very bottom is the output layer, which generally has the least number of artificial neurons. It provides the calculated data in a machine-readable form, i.e. “picture of a dog during the day with a red car.”

Methods and tools

There are various tools and methods for applying artificial intelligence to real-world scenarios, some of which can be used in parallel.

The foundation of all this is machine learning, which is defined as a system that builds up knowledge from experience. This process gives the system the ability to detect patterns and laws—and with ever-increasing speed and accuracy. In machine learning, both symbolic and neural AI is used.

Deep learning is a subtype of machine learning that is becoming ever more important. Only neural AI, i.e. neural networks are used in this case. Deep learning is the foundation for most current AI applications. Thanks to the possibility of increasingly expanding the design of the neural networks and making them more complex and powerful with new layers, deep learning is easily scalable and adaptable to many applications.

There are three learning processes for training neural networks: supervised, non-supervised and reinforcement learning, providing many different ways to regulate how an input becomes the desired output. While target values and parameters are specified from the outside in supervised learning, in unsupervised learning, the system attempts to identify patterns in the input that have an identifiable structure and can be reproduced. In reinforcement learning, the machine also works independently, but is rewarded or punished depending on the success or failure.

Applications

Artificial intelligence is already being used in many areas, but by no means are all of them visible at first glance. Therefore, selecting scenarios that take advantage of the possibilities of this technology is by no means a completed list.

Artificial intelligence’s mechanisms are excellent for detecting, identifying, and classifying objects and persons on pictures and videos. To that end, simple but CPU-intensive pattern detection is used. If the image information is decrypted and machine-readable in the first place, photos and videos can be easily divided into categories, searched and found. Such recognition is also possible for audio data.

Customer service is increasingly using chatbots. These text-based assistants perform recognition using key words that the customer may tell it and they respond accordingly. Depending on the use, this assistant can be more or less complex.

Opinion analysis is not only used for forecasting elections in politics, but also in marketing and many other areas. Opinion mining, also known as sentiment analysis, is used to scour the internet for opinion and emotional expressions, allowing for the creation of a largely anonymized opinion survey.

Search algorithms like Google’s are naturally top secret. The way in which search results are calculated, measured and outputted are largely determined by mechanisms that work with machine learning.

Word processing, or checking the grammar and spelling of a text, is a classic application of symbolic AI that has been used for a long time. Language is defined as a complex network of rules and instructions that analyzes blocks of text in a sentence and, under some circumstances, can identify and correct errors.

These abilities are also used in synthesizing speech, which is currently the talk of the town with assistant systems like Siri, Cortana, Alexa or Google Assistant.

On new smartphone chips like the Kirin 970, artificial intelligence is integrated into its own component, the NPU or neural processing unit.The processor is making its debut in the Huawei Mate 10. You will learn more about it and the roles that the technology will play on the Huawei smartphone once we have a chance to experiment with it in the near future. Qualcomm has already been working on an NPU, the Zeroth processor, for two years, and the new Apple A11 chip contains a similar component.

Furthermore, there are numerous research projects on artificial intelligence and the most prominent of all may be IBM’s Watson. The computer program had already made its first public debut in 2011 on the quiz show Jeopardy, where it faced off against two human candidates. Watson won, of course, and additional publicity appearances took place afterwards. A Japanese insurance company has been using Watson since January to check insured customers, their history and medical data and to evaluate injuries and illnesses. According to the company’s information, Watson has replaced roughly 30 employees. Loss of jobs through automation is just one of the ethical and social issues surrounding AI that is the subject of corporate and academic research.

A BASIC GUIDE TO SMARTPHONE BATTERIES

One of the most important elements of a smartphone is the battery. How long does it take to charge it? How long does it last? What are the differences between battery types? These are the main questions that we’re going to answer and we’re going to try to put some incorrect myths and legends to rest. Below, you’ll find our basic guide to batteries.

Keep your battery healthy

The first thing that we need to clarify is that the battery life will depend on how much you use the smartphone. You also have to take into consideration that the higher capacity batteries (with larger mAh numbers) usually last longer, although this depends a lot on the elements that it powers, such as the screen, and the software management and optimizations.

Most smartphones have powerful processors and RAM. These processors don’t usually consume much energy but, given their state of technological development, some have increased their power requirements.

A lot of the battery power is consumed by the screen, especially if it’s high resolution and if is illuminated a lot of the time. In addition, wireless connectivity (3G, 4G, Wi-Fi, NFC, Bluetooth, GPS) also uses its fair share of energy in order to work correctly. Taking all those elements into consideration, there are few smartphones that can last more than 24 hours without needing to be recharged.

In terms of general advice, good use of battery on a smartphone starts with charging it before it turns itself off. And, don’t worry if you unplug it before it reaches 100 percent battery. Turn off the features/connections that you don’t need and turn down the screen brightness. To sum up, here’s a list of some general pieces of advice:

  • l Charge the device when it asks you to, and don’t wait until it turns itself off.
  • l Unplug it when you need to, or when it reaches 100 percent if you can (it’s no good leaving it plugged in for hours).
  • l Keep the smartphone out of hot temperatures.
  • l Save energy by turning off features that you don’t need and turning down the screen brightness.

Types of batteries

In the past decade, we have seen various types of batteries come and go, each with different performance capabilities. This meant that, in the end, there were a lot of urban legends about batteries. The batteries on the first smartphones were Nickel-Cadmium (Ni-Cd) or Nickel-Metal Hydride (Ni-MH), which were also integrated in a lot of other electronic devices. These types of batteries were economically produced, but their main problem was the memory effect, which reduced their capacity over time.

Currently, the batteries that dominate the smartphone market are: Lithium-ion (Li-ion) or Lithium-polymer (Li-Po).

Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries

Lithium batteries are pretty standard on smartphones because they are light and provide decent battery life. Their light and compact design is their biggest asset. In terms of disadvantages, they support a limited number of charges, between 300 and 1000, which is less than the old nickel batteries and their production is expensive. Finally, they are the most dangerous out of all the batteries, as they can overheat and even explode since they are manufactured with flammable materials. You should not bend these batteries.

While you should always leave some charge on these batteries, it’s important to leave them with at least 40 percent charge as well as avoiding long charging periods. Charging these Lithium-ion batteries is much faster than charging other batteries even though there are two phases. Firstly, it quick charges up to 80 percent and then it slowly charges to reach 100 percent.

Lithium-Polymer batteries (LiPo)

LiPo batteries are becoming increasingly more common, and they are similar to the previously mentioned battery types, but more flexible so they can be used in smaller devices. They have more energy density and are much lighter.

However, there are some disadvantages. They are more expensive than the Li-ion batteries and slightly more flammable. If, for any reason, you leave the phone without charge, charging it again can be impossible with standard chargers, so be careful with this.

Myths and legends, truths and lies.

  1. The first charging of the battery should be longer than normal.

This is a myth that was handed down from the cadmium batteries. This isn’t necessary with the current Lithium-ion and Lithium-polymer batteries. It is recommended that you charge it normally, whether you’re charging your smartphone for the first time or whether it’s just on a normal day.

  1. The charging time is proportional to the battery life.

This is also a legend passed on from batteries past. Charging is achieved thanks to a charger chip in our smartphones that controls the process. Ideally, the device should be unplugged when it reaches 100 percent at the most; it doesn’t need charged any more after that.

  1. You have to do complete cycles of charging and discharging.

This is another idea that came from the Ni-MH batteries. The charging cycles with Lithium batteries can adjust our daily routine since there is no memory effect as there was on older batteries.

Calibrating the battery, a myth?

When you notice that your smartphone never reaches 100 percent charge and it remains at 95 percent or 90 percent, turn it off immediately, restart the device and find out if the battery has deteriorated because it is old, if it was because of your intensive usage or because the smartphone was exposed to high temperatures, or if it could be down to a range of other problems.

There’s loads of websites that tell you ‘how to calibrate the battery’, but they’re actually not calibrating the battery itself. They’re merely resetting the battery stats on your phone so you get a more accurate readout, not improving battery life in any meaningful way.

Conclusion

We have yet to see the manufacturers’ best work in terms of batteries, but up until now, a lot of improvements have been made to improve them, such as the Doze mode on Marshmallow. There’s no magical recipe that can make the battery last for two days since the services and technologies that we use today require more energy and power than the mobile phones of yesteryear.

Charge your battery when the smartphone asks you to and unplug it from the charger than you need it.

When you’re charging the battery, take into account that the manufacturer recommends that you charge your smartphone when it asks you to. Be wary of myths and legends. Be aware that your battery life will always depend on the features that you use.

If the battery swells, don’t hesitate to change it as we know they are flammable and could explode.

8 quick ways to clear up drive space in Windows 10

Bumping up against your PC’s physical storage limit? Here’s how to grab a couple gigs’ worth of space.

Face it: No matter how large your hard drive is — how many empty terabytes you had when you first bought your PC — you always seem to fill it right to the brink.

If you’re bumping up against your PC’s physical storage limit, there are some quick tricks you can use to reclaim a couple of gigs. But these options will only take you so far — if you need a lot of space, you may need to upgrade your hardware or consider deleting a few of those raw image files.

Empty the Recycle Bin

When you delete items, like files and photos, from your PC, they don’t immediately get deleted. Instead, they sit in the Recycle Bin and continue to take up valuable hard-drive space. To empty the Recycle Bin, go to your desktop, right-click on the Recycle Bin and click Empty Recycle Bin. You will see a warning pop-up asking if you are sure you want to permanently delete your Recycle Bin items. Click Yes to proceed.

Disk Cleanup

Windows has a built-in disk cleanup utility (aptly named Disk Cleanup) that can help you clear up space by removing various files — including temporary internet files, system error memory dump files, and even previous Windows installations that may still be hanging out from your recent move to Windows 10.

You can find Disk Cleanup in the Start menu, under All apps > Windows Administrative Tools > Disk Cleanup. Select the drive you want to clean up and hit OK, then wait while Disk Cleanup calculates how much space you can free up. If you want to delete system files, such as the Windows.old folder (which holds your previous installations of Windows, and can be several GB in size), click Cleanup system files.

Delete temporary and downloaded files

You can delete temporary files without running Disk Cleanup, along with files you downloaded that you may no longer need. Go to Settings > System and click on Storage on the left panel. Next, click This PC at the top and then click Temporary files from the list. Check the boxes for Temporary files and Downloads folder (and Empty recycle bin while you’re at it) and then click the Remove files button.

Turn on Storage Sense

If you have updated to Windows 10 Creators Update, then let Windows help out with freeing up disk space. Head back to the Storage page in Settings and toggle on Storage sense. Now, Windows will automatically delete unused temporary files, as well as files that have been in the Recycle Bin for more than 30 days. I’m pretty good with emptying the Recycle Bin on something approaching a regular schedule, but I’m also very happy to have Windows track down and eradicate needless temp files.

Save files to a different drive

If your computer has multiple hard drives or a partitioned hard drive, you may find yourself running out of space on one drive (or partition). Luckily, you can fix this by changing your default save locations for apps, documents, music, pictures, and videos. To do this, open the Settings menu and go to System > Storage. Under Save locations, select a different drive for each of the categories. You can select any drive — even a removable drive, like a USB flash drive or a memory card — that is connected to your PC.

Disable hibernate

Instead of shutting down your computer completely, you can put it in hibernate — a quasi-shutdown state that allows you to startup faster. When your computer goes into hibernate, it saves a snapshot of your files and drivers before shutting down, and this takes up space. If starting up quickly isn’t your priority, you can reclaim some valuable hard drive space by disabling hibernate altogether, because the hiberfil.sys file takes up 75 percent of your PC’s installed RAM. This means that if you have 8GB of RAM, you can clear up 6GB instantly by disabling hibernate.

Here’s our complete guide on disabling (or re-enabling) hibernate in Windows 10. One caveat: If you disable hibernate, you will not be able to use Windows 10’s fast startup feature.

Uninstall apps

You probably have some apps and programs on your PC that you don’t use — either apps you’ve installed and forgotten about, or bloatware that came preinstalled on your computer from the manufacturer. To find out which apps are taking up space, open the Settings menu and go to System > Apps & features and choose Sort by size. To uninstall an app from this menu, click the app and then click Uninstall.

If you’re running legacy programs on Windows 10, you may not see them in this list (some appear, but some do not). To find these programs, right-click the Start button and click Control Panel. Go to Programs and Features to see a list of the legacy programs on your computer (you can also sort this list by program size). To uninstall a program from this list, left-click it to select it and click Uninstall.

Store files in the cloud — and only in the cloud

If you take advantage of cloud storage via OneDrive or another service, you’re probably double-storing files and photos. Well, you don’t have to do this — all cloud storage services allow you to select which folders are actually downloaded and saved to your PC (as well as in the cloud).

Right-click on the OneDrive icon in your system tray and choose Settings. In the Account tab, next to Choose folders to sync to this device, click Choose folders. Select the folders you want to sync (read: save directly) to your device, and deselect any folders you do not want to sync to your device. When you’re finished selecting or deselecting folders, click OK. The folders you did not select to sync to your device will be removed from your hard drive, freeing up space. You will still be able to access the files in these folders from the OneDrive site in any Web browser; they just won’t be saved on your hard drive.

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11 Ways to Keep Your Computer Cool

Allow for Air Flow

The easiest thing you can do to help keep your computer cool is to give it a little breathing room by removing any obstacles to air flow.

Make sure there’s nothing sitting right against any side of the computer, especially the back. Most of the hot air flows out of the back end of the computer case. There should be at least 2-3 inches open on either side and the back should be completely open and unobstructed.

If your computer is hidden away inside a desk, make sure the door isn’t closed all the time. Cool air enters from the front and sometimes from the sides of the case. If the door is closed all day, hot air tends to recycle inside the desk, getting hotter and hotter the longer the computer is running.

Run Your PC With the Case Closed

An urban legend about desktop computer cooling is that running your computer with the case open will keep it cooler. It does seem logical – if the case is open, there would be more air flow which would help keep the computer cooler.

The missing puzzle piece here is dirt. When the case is left open, dust and debris clog the cooling fans faster than when the case is closed. This causes the fans to slow down and fail much quicker than usual. A clogged up fan does a terrible job at cooling your expensive computer components.

It’s true that running your computer with the case open might provide a small benefit at first, but the increase in fan exposure to debris has a much greater impact on temperature over the long run.

Clean Your Computer

The fans inside your computer are there to keep it cool. Do you know what slows a fan down and then eventually makes it stop? Dirt – in the form of dust, pet hair, etc. It all finds a way into your computer and much of it gets stuck in the several fans.

One of the most effective ways to cool your PC is to clean the internal fans. There’s a fan on top the CPU, one inside the power supply, and usually one or more on the front and/or back of the case.

Just shut your computer off, open up the case, and use canned air to remove the dirt from each fan. If your computer is really dirty, take it outside to clean or all that dirt will just settle elsewhere in the room, eventually ending up back inside your PC!

Move Your Computer

Is the area you’re running your computer in just too hot or too dirty? Sometimes your only option is to move the computer. A cooler and cleaner area of the same room might be fine, but you may have to consider moving the computer somewhere else entirely.

If moving your computer just isn’t an option, keep reading for more tips.

Important: Moving your computer can cause damage to the sensitive parts inside if you’re not careful. Be sure to unplug everything, don’t carry too much at once, and sit things down very carefully. Your main concern will be your computer’s case which holds all the important parts like your hard drive, motherboard, CPU, etc.

Upgrade the CPU Fan

Your CPU is probably the most sensitive and expensive part inside your computer. It also has the most potential to overheat.

Unless you’ve replaced your CPU fan already, the one that’s in your computer now is probably a bottom-of-the-line fan that cools your processor just enough to keep it working properly, and that’s assuming it’s running at full speed.

Many companies sell large CPU fans that help keep CPU temperature lower than a factory installed fan ever could.

Install a Case Fan (or Two)

A case fan is just a small fan that attaches to either the front or the back of a desktop computer case, from the inside.

Case fans help move air through a computer which, if you recall from the first several tips above, is the best way to ensure that those expensive parts don’t get too hot.

Installing two case fans, one to move cool air into the PC and another to move warm air out of the PC, is a great way to keep a computer cool.

Case fans are even easier to install than CPU fans, so don’t be afraid to get inside your computer to tackle this project.

Adding a case fan isn’t an option with a laptop or tablet but a cooling pad is a great idea to help out.

Stop Overclocking

If you’re not sure what overclocking is, you’re probably not doing it and so you don’t have to worry about it.

To the rest of you: you’re well aware that overclocking pushes your computer’s capabilities to its limits. What you may not realize is that these changes have a direct impact on the temperature that your CPU and any other overclocked components operate at.

If you’re overclocking your PC’s hardware but haven’t taken other precautions to keep that hardware cool, I definitely recommend reconfiguring your hardware to factory default settings.

Replace the Power Supply

The power supply in your computer has a large fan built into it. The air flow you feel when you hold your hand behind your computer is coming from this fan.

If you don’t have a case fan, the power supply fan is the only way that the hot air created inside your computer can be removed. Your computer can heat up quickly if this fan isn’t working.

Unfortunately, you can’t just replace the power supply fan. If this fan is no longer working, you’ll need to replace the entire power supply.

Install Component Specific Fans

It’s true that the CPU is probably the biggest heat producer in your computer, but nearly every other component creates heat as well. Super fast memory and high end graphics cards can often give the CPU a run for its money.

If you find that your memory, graphics card, or some other component is creating a lot of heat, you can cool them down with a component specific fan. In other words, if your memory is running hot, buy and install a memory fan. If your graphics card is overheating during gameplay, upgrade to a larger graphics card fan.

With ever faster hardware comes ever hotter parts. Fan manufacturers know this and have created specialized fan solutions for nearly everything inside your computer.

Install a Water Cooling Kit

In very high end computers, heat buildup can become such a problem that even the fastest and most efficient fans can’t cool the PC. In these cases, installing a water cooling kit can help. Water transfers heat well and can drastically reduce the temperature of a CPU.

“Water inside a computer? That doesn’t sound safe!” Don’t worry, the water, or other liquid, is completely enclosed inside the transfer system. A pump cycles cool liquid down to the CPU where it can absorb the heat and then it pumps the hot liquid out of your computer where the heat can dissipate.

Interested? Water cooling kits are easy to install, even if you’ve never upgraded a computer before.

Install a Phase Change Unit

Phase change units are the most drastic of cooling technologies.

A phase change unit can be thought of as a refrigerator for your CPU. It utilizes many of the same technologies to cool or even freeze a CPU.

Phase change units like the one pictured here range in price from $1,000 to $2,000 USD.

Similar enterprise-level cooling products can be $10,000 USD or more!