How much is the voltage of the PLC battery to be replaced with a new one?

Lithium battery for PLC storage, the battery should be replaced when the voltage is lower than 3V.
When the PLC user program is to remain in the RAM, the battery is used. The battery is usually a 3V or 3.6V non-rechargeable lithium battery. The battery life is usually about five years. When the battery is used for a long time, the voltage will be Falling, when it falls below enough to guarantee data in RAM, the program in RAM is lost. If the user does not have a backup program, it will be quite troublesome.
The general PLC has a battery voltage detection circuit inside. When the voltage drops to a certain level, the PLC will alarm and remind the battery to be replaced. The PLC’s instruction manual provides a way to replace the battery. Generally speaking, after the PLC is powered off, because the RAM power supply terminal of the PLC is connected with a charging capacitor, even if the battery is removed, the charging power on the capacitor is sufficient for the data in the RAM to remain for a period of time, so if the battery is removed in a short time (usually 5 minutes) Then replace the new battery, the data will not be lost.
However, the environment in which the user actually uses the PLC is different, for example, the capacity of the capacitor is reduced, and the RAM power supply circuit has
Dust, sludge, etc. form a discharge circuit, which will speed up the discharge speed of the capacitor after the PLC is powered off, thus making the time difficult to grasp. If you replace the battery while charging, you can keep the program safe. Because the power will always
There is a voltage applied to the power supply pin of the RAM chip. Of course, you should also be careful when changing, pay attention to the polarity of the battery and avoid short circuit.
It is best to power on the PLC for 15 minutes (charge the internal capacitor), power off, change the new battery within 5 minutes, and then power on it.

What is the fast charge mode?

Mobile phone manufacturers are limited by the size of their mobile phones and their battery capacity is limited, so they began to turn their attention to fast charging. Fast charging is a technology that increases the charging power of mobile phones within a reasonable range and aims to quickly replenish most of the power for mobile phones. The charging power is equal to the current multiplied by the voltage. There are currently two solutions that can increase the charging power, high voltage, small current and low voltage and high current.

For example, the process of charging a mobile phone is like a process of dripping a mineral water bottle with a hole in the bottle. To speed up, first squeeze the water bottle to make the water flow faster, which is the high voltage and small current. The second is to tie another hole. At the same time, the water flow doubles. This is the low voltage and high current.

High voltage and small current

In 2013, Qualcomm introduced the Quick Charge 1.0 standard to increase the charging efficiency by increasing the input current, allowing the handset equipped with the Snapdragon 600 processor to support 5V/2A”/charging. However, due to the limitations of the micro USB interface, the input current should not be too large, so Quick Charge 2.0/3.0 can increase the power by increasing the supply voltage, which can achieve 9V/2A. In 2016, Qualcomm introduced the Quick Charge 4.0 standard, which is said to support the optimal voltage intelligent negotiation algorithm to provide the most suitable charging voltage for the battery. In addition to Qualcomm, MediaTek’s Pump Express Plus 1.0/2.0, Samsung’s Fast Charge, and Meizu’s charge 3.0 also use this high-voltage, low-current solution.

Low voltage and high current

Remember to charge for five minutes and talk for two hours? In 2014, OPPO introduced VOOC flash charging technology with a charging power of 22W. VOOC flash charging is a typical low-voltage and high-current solution, but as mentioned earlier, the micro USB interface will limit the current, so OPPO has customized the charger and charging cable, and even the internal circuit of the mobile phone has been modified to support 5V/4A. At present, OPPO’s dual-cell SuperVOOC super flash charging has a maximum charging power of nearly 50W and can charge 40% in 10 minutes. Also using this solution is Huawei SuperCharge Super Fast Charge, plus DASH Flash Charger.

Most Android phones that support fast charge will be equipped with a fast charge charger. There are exceptions, of course, so don’t ignore the accessories when buying the product. Be sure to look at the voltage and current requirements above.

High-voltage small current and low-voltage high-current are all in order to solve the charging problem, and there are differences due to different solutions to the micro USB problem. But now it is progressing, becoming smarter and safer, and micro USB is now undergoing changes, and mobile phone charging will become more and more perfect in the future. But now, you can turn on the “power saving mode” or choose the right fast charge charger to speed up.

My Battery Develops a ‘Memory’: FALSE

Developing a “memory” was a problem with older nickel-cadmium (NiCad) batteries. That’s where the whole “I gotta discharge the battery entirely” thing came from. Like we said, it’s not necessary on Lithium-ion batteries.

So why do Lithium-ion batteries not seem to last as long as they age? It’s not about “memory,” it’s about capacity. Your smartphone battery over its lifetime degrades enough that in the same amount of time charging, a new phone could hit a full charge, while an older phone might only get to around 82 percent in that same charge time. BatteryUniversity calls it “old man syndrome.”

Another way to look at it is that newer batteries are just hungrier to suck up all that power.

Apple claims that “Apple Lithium-ion batteries are designed to hold at least 80 percent of their original capacity for a high number of charge cycles” but also admits that the amount differs from product to product.

Apple iPhone batteries also support “fast charging” so they’ll get to 80 percent pretty quickly. After 80, you’ll see the capacity increase slowly, some of which is to prevent heat build up, and that extends battery life. But guess what? Fast charging isn’t great for Lithium-ion battery either—it makes the corrosion go even faster.

The current iPhones come with a 5 watt, 1 amp charger block which works, but of course, you can charge faster with a 5W, 2.1A charger. If you stick to the Qi-based wireless charging, also keep in mind, most support 7.5W, with wireless fast charging now available after recent iOS updates.

Best thing to do: If you are going to charge overnight, don’t fast charge. Use a slow charge. That means your charger should be lower voltage.

My Battery Should Always Drop to 0 Percent: FALSE

Running a smartphone until it’s dead—a full discharge—every time is not the way to go with modern Lithium-ion batteries. Don’t even let it get that close to 0 percent. That wears out a Lithium-ion battery even faster than normal. Partial discharge is the way to go.

Batteries are on borrowed time from the get-go. The insides are in a state of decay that can’t be helped. Over time, they’re simply going to hold less and less power. If you’ve got an old iPhone 5 or 6 still in use and wonder why it’s only got a charge for a few hours compared to the almost full day you got when it was new, that’s why. The capacity diminishes over time.

The only time you would want to go out of your way to use up a smartphone battery all the way to 0 is to effectively recalibrate the internal sensor that displays your phone’s battery level. It’s hardly guaranteed—in fact, many people don’t think it works at all—but it’s recommended by some, especially if you’ve got a phone that hits 10 percent (or even 20 or 30) and seems to just die.

Even if you do go all the way to shutdown, that may not mean it’s at 0 percent in the battery. Leave the phone be for a few hours, if you think this is worth doing. Then give it a reset (holding down the Home and sleep/wake button simultaneously) for good measure.

Best Thing to Do: Plug the phone in before it asks you to enter a low-power mode(on iPhones, iOS will ask you to turn that on when you hit 20 percent power). Plug it in when the phone is between 30 and 40 percent. Phones will get to 80 percent pretty quick if you’re doing a fast charge. Pull the plug then, as going to full 100 percent when using a high voltage charger can put some strain on the battery. Keep it between 30 and 80 percent charged to increase battery lifespan.

(BTW: Fast charging like we’ve seen in Android phones for a while finally arrived in the iPhone 8 and X. Before, it took an iPhone a couple of hours to go up 50 percent. Now, Apple claims the 8 and the X go from up 50 percent in only 30 minutes with the right chargers. That requires a USB-C power adapter, which in turn means owning a special USB-C-to-Lightning cable, neither of which are included; or using a higher voltage charger like the one from an iPad or even a MacBook.)

I Should Freeze My Phone to Prevent Battery Problems: FALSE

Lithium-ion batteries hate two things: extreme cold and extreme heat. With cold, repeatedly charging a smartphone in sub-freezing temps can create a permanent “plating of metallic Lithium” on the battery anode, according to BatteryUniversity. You can’t fix that problem, and doing it too much is only going kill the battery faster.

The battery is not alone in hating heat: all the internals of any smartphone don’t like it. It’s a computer in there, and computers and hot air are enemies going back decades. Leave your black iPhone sitting in the sun as you laze by the pool someday, and don’t be surprised when it throws a warning at you that it needs to cool off. In the summer, keep it off the dash of the car, preferably in the shade.

Apple specifically says charging iPhones over 35 degrees C/95 degrees F will do permanent damage to the battery; expect the same with any modern smartphone.

Best thing to NEVER do: Don’t let it get too cold or hot when charging. And don’t put the phone in the freezer. That’s dumb.

Charging My iPhone Overnight Will Overload the Battery: FALSE

The one thing all the experts agree upon is that smartphones are smart enough that they do not let an overload happen. Extra protection chips inside make sure that doesn’t happen in a tablet or smartphone or even a laptop. Once the internal Lithium-ion battery hits 100 percent of its capacity, charging stops. That usually happens within an hour or two, tops.

If you leave the smartphone plugged in overnight, it’s going to use a bit of energy constantly trickling new juice to the battery every time it falls to 99 percent. That is eating into your phone’s lifespan (see below).


The best thing to do: Don’t worry about this too much. Plug the phone in when you go to sleep; if you wake up sometime in the night, unplug it to prevent constant trickle-charging. If you don’t wake much, plug your phone into a smart home outlet that you put on a schedule so it turns off.

Potential problems that could be encountered while charging overnight:

1) It is hot in here? The trickle charge can cause some heating up. Many experts recommend taking a phone fully out of the case to charge overnight. At the very least, do NOT stack a bunch of crap like books or other devices on top of a charging device. And for the love of Jobs, don’t put it under your pillow. Do any of the above and you can expect the phone to get hot—not necessarily enough for spontaneous combustion, but at least enough to damage the battery (see below). If you are afraid of fire, some in the UK recommend leaving the charging device on a dish or saucer while plugged in, or put it on something metal that is more likely to disappate heat, like a heatsink does on the chips inside a PC.

2) Bad Cables. If you’re using a knock-off cable that isn’t from the manufacturer, or at least “certified” in some way (iPhone Lightning cables should be MFi certified, for example), it could be a problem. The cord and connectors may not be up to the specifications needed for the phone or tablet. Don’t skimp by buying chintzy cables.

What is the impact of charging a laptop for a long time?

It will not damage your battery.

It will shorten its life though, but there is nothing practical you can do about it.

Lithium Ion batteries age in two ways, one is through what is termed “Calendar Life” and the other is Cycle life.  Here is what you need to understand about both:

Calendar life  – the time spent at a given state of charge (SOC) and a given temperature causes a loss of capacity and increase in internal resistance that is proportional to the square root of the time.  Higher SOC imparts greater degradation.  Higher temperature imparts greater degradation.  Keeping your computer plugged in all the time with the battery ensures that the battery stays hot and charged as much as is possible.  If nothing else, turn down the performance of the laptop when you don’t need it to overperform so that it runs cooler.

Cycle life – while you might think that it makes sense to fully discharge the batteries, rather than put lots of little cycles into it, the opposite is true.  Lots of little cycles do virtually nothing to the cells.  100% discharges are the bane of their existance.

So, the reality is, you could optimize battery life by keeping the battery about 50% charged, letting it discharge a bit and then recharging it, and if chargers allowed for it, floating them at a SOC that was not 100%.  However, it is much much easier to just get on with life and use your laptop and not worry too much about this.  Assume your battery costs you $1 a day.  Put that much away for its replacement.  When it is fine on the day you buy your next computer, you have now paid for that new computer, or a good size chunk of it.

How do I keep my laptop’s battery in good health?

You’ve probably heard some people say you should drain your battery completely before charging it, or that you should keep it between 40% and 80% all the time to make it last longer.

Most of these rules are outdated, applying to older nickel-based batteries. Luckily, most or all of your gadgets these days run on Lithium Ion batteries, which are easy to take care of.

They last longer when you perform shallow discharges, keep them cool, and don’t leave them plugged in while they’re running at 100%. Honestly, though, batteries have a finite life no matter what, and your efforts will only go so far—so don’t stress about it.

Focus your efforts on getting better battery life out of your phone or laptop on a given charge instead—and knowing how to replace the battery when it starts dying.

Use Battery Settings on macOS

Apple’s MacBook, MacBook Air, and MacBook Pro laptops don’t have a battery slider, although many of the same settings described above are present in the Energy Saver preferences.

To open it, click on the Spotlight magnifying-glass icon in the upper right corner of the screen, search for Energy Saver, and then click on the Battery tab. If you want to approximate the Windows Better Battery or Battery Saver modes, make sure that the options “Put hard disks to sleep when possible” and “Slightly dim the display while on battery power” are checked, and the option “Enable Power Nap while on battery power” is unchecked. (With Power Nap enabled and your MacBook asleep, the machine will wake up now and then to check for updates. Disabling it keeps your MacBook fully asleep when it is asleep—until you choose wake it up.) On recent MacBook Pro laptops, the display brightness adjusts to 75 percent when you unplug the computer from power if you have “Slightly dim the display while on battery power” enabled.

So, if you want the best battery life, should you use Battery Saver all the time? Not exactly. Because Battery Saver mode disables some useful features, you might want to use it only when your battery is below 20 percent and a power outlet isn’t near. Likewise, turning off Power Nap can mean it will take longer to catch up on notifications you’ve missed while you’re away from your MacBook. That’s why most users should use the Better Battery setting and enable Power Nap most of the time.

Use the Windows Battery Performance Slider

The first stop on our battery-life betterment tour is the Windows battery performance slider, a recent addition to Windows 10. It aims to group all of the settings that affect battery life into a few easy-to-understand categories. The company that made your PC determines exactly which settings the battery slider controls. But in general, keep these guidelines in mind:

  • The Best Performance mode is for people willing to trade off battery runtime to gain performance and responsiveness. In this mode, Windows won’t stop apps running in the background from consuming a lot of power.
  • The Better Performance setting limits resources for background apps, but it otherwise prioritizes power over efficiency.
  • Better Battery mode delivers longer battery life than the default settings on previous versions of Windows. (It’s actually labeled “Recommended” on many PCs.)
  • Battery Saver mode, a slider choice that will appear only when your PC is unplugged, reduces the display brightness by 30 percent, prevents Windows update downloads, stops the Mail app from syncing, and suspends most background apps.