3 ways you’re killing your battery while it charges

There are a few things you should not do with your battery. The limited two-year lifespan of lithium-ion batteries can be reduced even further if you don’t avoid certain behaviors. We’ll tell you which ones they are in this article.

The battery is the most sensitive part of our smartphones and their usable lifespans can be affected by our behavior. Several series of measurements by the Battery University have produced significant results. Now, get ready for the shocking findings.

Don’t charge your smartphone at a computer

Charging via the USB port of your PC not only takes longer, it is also harmful. Tensions of USB ports often vary and create greater heat generation. This has an affect on the service life of batteries. The materials used for electrodes and electrolytes are really stable only in a small temperature spectrum and they dislike when you rip them from their comfort zone.

If your charge your battery hard, especially in connection with high voltages, it can lose capacity within a few months. The Battery University notes a fall to 65 percent of its original capacity when the battery is warmed to 40 degrees Celsius.

So, ideally, use the original charger and connect it to an electrical outlet. The supplied transformer provides a direct current, which should not heat a battery – thus maximizing its service life.

Don’t completely drain your battery

If your battery level drops to 2 percent, it is already too late to find a charging socket. Be aware that if your battery discharges too deeply, it may cause damage and premature aging.

In its long-term test, the Battery University found that regular, to-the-limit discharging led to an overall lifespan of only 300 to 500 charge cycles, while batteries which had been discharged to only 25 to 50 percent could reach 1,000 to 2,500 cycles.

So don’t shy away from charging the battery even if there’s another 30 or 50 percent charge left.

Don’t charge the battery overnight

The structure of the battery is so composed that, during charging, the lithium ions are pressed into a graphite lattice. The problem here is that the lithium ions react nastily with crystals when they meet and connect. And the greater the battery is charged, the more likely these connections are.

These crystals are sharp, big and destructive. They are so large that the graphite lattice, which should be confined, actually break up little by little. And with fewer of these individual cells remaining, there is logically less space for lithium-ion…ergo less battery capacity.

So don’t charge your battery to 100 percent. Unfortunately, there is no app that stops charging at, say, 80 percent so you must make sure yourself that your smartphone is not overcharged. Battery University even found that when you regularly charge your battery to only 70 percent, you can still get more than 1000 cycles from it.

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5 reasons your Android battery is charging slowly

Your cable sucks

The first offender in any case of slow-charging should always be your USB cable. Just take a look at it: guilty as hell. Considering the awful treatment my USB cables undergo, it’s no wonder that it is usually why my phone won’t charge faster.

USB cables get bent, twisted, coiled, run over with chair wheels and generally abused: all of these are not very good for maintaining a solid connection and flow-through of power. Be sure to check the ends too: they can very easily get full of fluff.

Your power source sucks

The next obvious question is where are you getting your power from? If you have a USB cable plugged into your laptop then your phone is going to charge insanely slowly and you’ll deserve it. Likewise Qi wireless charging. While Qi is brilliant technology, that brilliance comes at the cost of speed.

Your best bet is to have your phone plugged direct into mains power at the wall socket. But even this can be problematic, especially if you’re in an old building where the wiring might be a little sketchy. If you think this could be the problem, move to another outlet (and then call an electrician).

Your charger sucks

To complete the trifecta, if it’s not your power source or your cable, chances are that it’s the actual adaptor you’re using that is causing your battery to charge slowly. There’s a reason every manufacturer provides a specific USB adaptor for each phone they ship.

Switching adaptors between phones can mix-match voltage, wattage, ampage and general powerage. So stick with the adaptor that came with your phone or at the very least take a look at the fine print on it and replace it with another adaptor of the same type.

Your phone sucks

Sorry, but it’s true. If you’re sitting there wondering why your Galaxy S2 takes so long to charge it’s because your phone sucks. Newer processors not only support fast charging, but newer phones even come with turbo charging chargers. The Galaxy S6, for example, can get your four hours’ worth of usage after just ten minutes plugged in.

Other phones that support fast charging will have a lightning bolt icon on the charger itself), possibly along with turbo charging output figures. Your phone can also become a pocket lint cave too, so check your microUSB port and make sure the little flap in the port isn’t bent while you’re looking in there. Your battery might just be kaput too, so ask yourself how old it is.

You suck

It’s true – you’re the worst thing preventing your phone charging quickly when you can’t keep your hands off it. Seriously, if time is of the essence, your best bet is to leave it alone. Mindlessly scrolling through your Insta feed while watching your battery percentage go nowhere is no one’s fault but your own.

So leave your phone alone when you charge it, or better yet, turn it off entirely. That’s actually the absolute best way to charge a phone quickly: turn it off, plug it into a wall with the original charger and have your socks off when you come back to it. Even after as little as 15 minutes. Now put a nice outfit on – your hot date awaits.

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Sony Xperia XZ Pro could be among first phones with the Qualcomm Snapdragon 845

Sony has had a whirlwind few months due mainly to the launch of several new phones, but it looks like it’s not slowing down anytime soon. According to recent rumors, the company is readying a new flagship to serve as a follow-up to the Sony Xperia XZ Premium, and it’s called the Sony Xperia XZ Pro. The phone is rumored to debut at Mobile World Congress 2018., which kicks off February 26.

We don’t know all that much about the new phones just yet, but there are a few rumors that give us hints at what the new phone may look like. Here’s everything we know about the Sony Xperia XZ Pro so far.

Specs

Perhaps the most notable thing about this device is what’s under the hood. According to a leak from MyDrivers, the phone will be among the first to feature the new Qualcomm Snapdragon 845 processor, which is Qualcomm‘s most powerful mobile chip yet. It will also boast 6GB of RAM and 128GB of storage — though there could be options for how much RAM or storage are available on the phone.

MyDrivers notes that the phone may feature a 5.7-inch OLED display with a 4K resolution, which would be one of the highest-quality displays so far. Sure, it’s not the first phone to feature a 4K display, but hopefully this device will be among a new generation of devices with ultra-high-resolution displays, which should make for far better mobile virtual reality experiences.

Sony has traditionally placed an emphasis on cameras, and it’s likely the Xperia XZ Pro will be no different. The phone will apparently feature a dual rear-facing camera with one 18-megapixel sensor and one 12-megapixel sensor.

To power all of this, the phone is rumored to feature a 3,420mAh battery. It will boast an IP68 water-resistance rating.

Design

Sony hasn’t exactly had a great track record with design, but all signs point to the company attempting to turn that around in 2018. Rumors indicate Sony will embrace bezel-less designs this year. We’ll update this article if we hear any more about the phone’s design or if any leaked images pop up.

Price and availability

According to MyDrivers, the phone will come with a price tag of 6,000 Chinese yuan, which equates to $930. That’s no small price for a phone — even if it’s a premium one. While it will reportedly be announced at Mobile World Congress at the end of February, that doesn’t mean it’ll be available then. Sony could wait a few months to launch the phone, depending on factors like availability of the Snapdragon 845. Last year, because Samsung manufactured the Snapdragon 835, it got first dibs. That may also be the case this time around.

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Fix Sticky Keyboard Keys

Step 1:Cleaning the Keys

Before you begin, unplug the keyboard or remove the batteries. If using a laptop, shut it down and unplug it. Pick a can up from an office supply store and spray around the base of each stuck key to dislodge dust and debris. If you don’t have compressed air, turn the keyboard upside down and tap the back while shaking gently. Dampen a cotton swab or clean cloth with isopropyl alcohol. Run it around the edge of each key to remove grease and dried liquid. Some people have reported success with baby oil, but it can remain in your keyboard, so use at your own risk. If you can see the debris underneath the key, use the toothpick or straightened paper clip to dislodge it.

Step 2:Cleaning Under the Keys

If you need to remove more than a few keys, take a photograph first so you remember which key goes where. Before you continue, unplug the keyboard, Most laptops have keys that are difficult or impossible to remove. In these cases, you’ll need a guide or advice specific to your laptop model, or you’ll need to have your laptop professionally repaired. On desktop keyboards, the outer key covering can usually be pried up easily with a flat-head screwdriver. Most debris is found in the letters and numbers. Other keys tend to be less dirty and more difficult to replace after removal, especially the space bar. Use compressed air to remove exposed dust and debris, and a cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol to remove stickiness and stains. For laptop keyboards and other keyboards with delicate internal parts, use gentle swabbing only. If the underside of your keys are discolored or dirty, put them in a colander and run water over them, or rub them in a bucket of soapy water. Let them air dry completely on a paper towel.Try this technique if your laptop key raises or lowers extra slowly. After removing the key, look for a square plastic object around the button. Remove this gently by pushing the corners sideways with a toothpick. Rinse this in water to clean the hinge, then let air dry. On a Macbook, the catch that holds these hinges in place are on the lower left and right.Let all the keys dry, then push them down over the buttons to reattach them. Let the keyboard dry overnight before you use it.

Step 3:Fixing Hardware and Software Issues

If you only have keyboard problems when using a single application, you’ll need to look for help fixing that software issue.Inconsistent results from keystrokes can be caused by low battery power. USB keyboards work best when plugged directly into the computer, not into a hub, keylogger, or other device.Keyboards with a circular, six-pin PS/2 plug sometimes encounter errors if they are connected while the computer is on. Shut down the computer, disconnect the keyboard, and reconnect it again.If some of your laptop keys don’t register when pressed, there could be a loose internal connection. Unless you have a guide for your model and are comfortable disassembling your laptop yourself, you should take it to a professional.

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Do you need a smart band or a smartwatch?

The world of wearable devices is vast and complicated: there are all types, sizes, colors and prices. I’m most often asked about the difference between smart bands and smartwatches, and which is better. In this article, I’ll explain the differences to help you decide which is right for your needs.

What are smart bands?

Connected bracelets or smart bracelets are called smart bands. In most cases, they have a simple form and their main function is to track and analyze your movements during the day. That’s why, most smart bands have a pedometer, and sometimes also an optical heart rate sensor and various other sensors.

Smart bands are closer to the concept of a bracelet than a watch, but there are some smart bands with displays that can tell you the time and various other useful tidbits of information.

What are smartwatches?

Smartwatches are like regular watches, but with smart features. Their shape is close to that of a normal watch and usually these devices are paired with a smartphone to perform their main functions.

Smartwatches, in principle, all have a display that simulates the dial of a real clock, analog or digital. Thanks to the display, many other features are made possible, like reading notifications, interacting with them, using the apps installed on the smartwatch itself or choosing an alternate watch face that fits our style. There are also hybrid smartwatches with real hands and some limited smart functionality.

Which should you choose?

The choice between a smart band and a smartwatch is personal, but there are some things you should keep in mind when deciding which fits your needs best. First, you should ask yourself if you want to be able to read the time on your wrist. If the answer is yes, don’t rule out smart bands entirely, because some can display time. Second, you should determine whether or not you’re interested in monitoring your heart rate. If the answer is yes, you still don’t have to rule out smart bands, as some like the Xiaomi Mi Band 2 have this feature.

Another question to ask yourself is if you want to use the wearable every day, or only when you are doing physical activity? Not only that, the last thing to consider is perhaps the most important of all: do you want to be able to interact with notifications?

The answers to those last two questions are the ones that move the needle from one category to the other. Smartwatches can inform you that a notification has arrived, and you can even interact with them by replying with quick responses or your voice. In addition, smartwatches have a more traditional design so they can fit in everyday situations, elegant dinners or work meetings.

On the other hand, smart bands are more conspicuous and sometimes brightly colored, though it depends on the model. Smart bands tend to have better battery life due to either having no display or just a small one, and no apps or notifications to sync. One of the few exceptions to this is the Gear Fit2 Pro, a smart band with a beautiful display and many apps available.

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5 tips to increase the battery life on your Android smartwatch

If you own an Android Wear smartwatch, you probably already know that the battery in these smart bracelets barely lasts a full day. This is especially the case if you use your watch all the time. So here are some tips and tricks you can try to increase the battery life of your favorite accessory.

  1. Block/manage app notifications

Notifications deplete your smartwatch battery. Although some are essential for you to get the full experience out of a connected watch, some apps may overload you with notifications, which then become quite intrusive. Fortunately, Android Wear offers a simple solution to help you manage notifications. The “Block app notifications” manager will allow you to add and/or delete apps, thus blocking notifications from them

To manage authorized or unauthorized apps, simply:

  • Launch the “Android Wear” app on your smartphone
  • Click on the settings at the top right, next to the three small dots
  • Open the option “Block app notifications”.
  1. Disable the automatic brightness setting

As with all other mobile operating systems, you have the option to automatically manage the brightness of the screen according to the environment you’re in. Aside from this feature not being particularly useful for everyone, this option is a huge power consumer since it constantly tests the surrounding environment and adjusts the brightness of the screen accordingly.

To disable automatic brightness, simply:

  • Enter the app menu
  • Open the watch settings
  • Then go to “Adjust Brightness”.

From here, you can choose the brightness intensity of the screen (between several levels – from 1 to 5), but we advise you to disable the “Auto” option. If you’re in a darker environment, you can quickly lower the brightness of the screen from the notification bar. To access this, pull the top panel down and scroll the screen twice to the right. It’s also worth noting that the Wear Mini Launcher app does the job very well. And it’s available for free on Google Play.

  1. Enable cinema mode

As the name suggests, cinema mode stops the watch from disturbing you. The smartwatch goes into a semi-hibernation mode that turns the screen off and can only be switched on again using the power button. Once woken up, cinema mode automatically deactivates.

To activate it, simply:

  • Pull the panel from the top down
  • Click on the watch icon.

Since the watch remains off during this period of hibernation, your watch’s battery life will last longer. This is useful if you’re going to the cinema (as the name indicates), or even during a meeting or if you don’t want to be alerted by your watch every 30 seconds. Try it and let us know what you think.

  1. Limit connectivity

Limiting Wi-Fi, NFC or location services also saves battery life. Simply speaking, this will allow you to moderate the watch’s time-consuming search for a network each time it seeks a connection.

To disable this option, simply:

  • Enter the app menu
  • Open the watch settings
  • Click on the connectivity menu.
  1. Disable wrist gestures

Disabling wrist gestures can also help increase the battery life of the smartwatch. “Wrist gestures ” allow you to scroll through Google Now cards. To do this, the function in question will query the motion sensor (as you’d expect), which requires power and therefore battery.

To disable this option, you can proceed in the same way as mentioned above:

  • Pull the right drawer on the watch
  • Open the watch settings
  • Then go down to “wrist gestures ” to turn it off

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Laptop Processor Buyer’s Guide

Laptop processors are very different from their desktop counterparts. The primary reason for this is the limited amount of power they have to run on when the laptop is not plugged into an outlet. The less power that the laptop uses, the longer the system should be able to run for off the battery. To do this, the manufacturers employ a large number of tricks such as CPU scaling where a processor scales its power usage (and thus performance) to the tasks at hand.

This presents a major challenge in balancing performance and power consumption.

There are four distinct categories that I classify for laptop computers, each with its own distinct purpose for those using them. To match these systems to the computing tasks you also want to select the proper processor. Just remember, many people don’t need a high-end processor to match the programs they use these days. So be sure to get an idea how you will be using your laptop so you can match the processor to your needs.

Budget Laptops

Budget laptops are those developed to provide a functional portable computer at low price point. This would also include the Chromebook category of computer that often uses the lower performance processors. It should be noted that some Chromebooks do use processors typically found in tablets which are not fast but decent for basic tasks. Budget laptops use a wide range of processors because often they are based on older processors that use to be found in higher end laptops or the newer low-cost processors.

All of the processors listed here should be able to do all the basic computing tasks including web browsing, email, word processing, and presentation. They are also very capable of being used for digital playback as well. About the only thing that value system processors will not be able to do well is gaming and high-end graphics applications.

Here are some of the processors to look for in this range:

AMD A6-7000 and Higher

AMD A6-9210 and Higher

AMD A8-7100 and Higher

AMD A9-9410 and Higher

AMD E1-7010 and Higher

AMD E2-7110 and Higher

AMD E2-9010 and Higher

Intel Celeron N3350 and Higher

Intel Core i3-6100U and Higher

Intel Core i3-7100U and Higher

Intel Core i5-6200U and higher

Intel Pentium 4405U and Higher

Intel Pentium 4405Y and Higher

Intel Pentium N4200 and Higher

Ultraportables

Ultraportables are systems that are designed to be as light and compact as possible yet powerful enough for most common business applications such as e-mail, word processing, and presentation software. These systems are geared towards those people who travel a lot who want a system that is not very cumbersome. They are willing to sacrifice computing power and peripherals for portability. Ultrabooks are a new subcategory of these systems that are built on a specific platform defined by Intel. Below are the processors found in ultraportables:

AMD A6-9210 and Higher

AMD A9-9410 and Higher

AMD A10 Micro-6700T and Higher

AMD E1-7010 and Higher

AMD E1 Micro-6200T and Higher

AMD E2-7110 and Higher

AMD E2-9010 and Higher

Intel Celeron 3205U and Higher

Intel Celeron N2830 and Higher

Intel Core i3-6100U and Higher

Intel Core i3-7100U and Higher

Intel Core i5-6200U and Higher

Intel Core i5-7200U and Higher

Intel Core i5-7Y54

Intel Core i7-5500U and Higher

Intel Core i7-7500U and Higher

Intel Core i7-7Y75

Intel Core M-5Y10 and Higher

Intel Core m3-6Y30 and Higher

Intel Core m5-6Y57 and Higher

Intel Core m7-6Y75 and Higher

Intel Pentium N3530 and Higher

Intel Pentium 4405U and Higher

Thin and Light

A thin and light laptop is one that is able to perform pretty much any computing task at least on some level. These systems can vary widely in terms of their price and performance. They tend to perform better than those in the value category or ultraportables but they are smaller and more portable than the large media-centric desktop replacements.

Note that as ultraportable processors used in Ultrabooks continue to get better, many systems in this category are beginning to use processors found in the ultraportable category for extended battery life. Here are some of the processors that can be found in this category of laptops:

AMD A8-8600P and Higher

AMD A9-9410 and Higher

AMD A10-8700P and Higher

AMD A10-9600P and Higher

AMD A12-9700P and Higher

Intel Core i3-6100U and Higher

Intel Core i3-7100U and Higher

Intel Core i5-6200U and Higher

Intel Core i5-6300HQ and Higher

Intel Core i5-7200U and Higher

Intel Core i7-6500U and Higher

Intel Core i7-6700HQ and Higher

Intel Core i7-7500U and Higher

Desktop Replacements

Desktop replacement laptops are designed to be a complete system that has the equivalent processing power and capabilities to a desktop system but in a mobile package. They tend to be larger and bulkier to fit all the components allowing it to perform at almost the same level as a desktop in all aspects of computing. In general, a desktop replacement will perform exceptionally well. Mobile gaming is getting close to desktop performance, but the cost is much greater and still not the same as the top-end desktop graphics. Of course, the mobile gaming performance will be determined by the graphics processor as well as the CPU. Here are some of the processors that can be found in this category of machine:

AMD A8-8600P and Higher

AMD A9-9410 and Higher

AMD A10-8700P and Higher

AMD A10-9600P and Higher

AMD A12-9700P and Higher

AMD FX-8800P and Higher

AMD FX-9800P and Higher

Intel Core i5-6300HQ and Higher

Intel Core i7-4700MQ/HQ and Higher

Intel Core i7-4930MX and Higher

Intel Core i7-6700HQ and Higher

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How to Keep Your Mac Keyboard and Mouse Clean

The day you unpacked and started working with your new Mac was special; it marked the day when your Mac’s keyboard and mouse were working at their best. From that day forward, little bits of grime, dust, and dirt have been building up on these often-used peripherals. The buildup of gunk will slowly cause your mouse to feel less responsive, and may even cause your keyboard to miss a key click or two now and then.

Luckily, it’s fairly easy to restore a keyboard and mouse to like-new condition. All that’s needed is a bit of cleaning and attention.

Cleaning Suggestions

Start by turning off your Mac and unplugging your mouse and keyboard. If your keyboard or mouse is battery powered, remove the batteries as well.

Have the following items on hand:

  • Microfiber cloth
  • Can of pressurized air
  • Clean water (It doesn’t need to be purified, distilled, or anything else special; just clean.)
  • Cotton swabs or similar cleaning products
  • Toothpicks or similar items

Cleaning Your Mac’s Mouse

Wipe the mouse body with the microfiber cloth. This should be enough to remove any oils, such as fingerprints. For stubborn spots, dip the cloth in the clean water and rub the mouse gently. Don’t apply water directly to the mouse because it may drip into the mouse’s inner workings, where sensitive electronics reside.

Don’t be afraid to use a little pressure to scrub off really dirty spots on the mouse.

Just as long as your not applying pressure near any scroll wheel, cover, or tracking system.

Mighty Mouse

If you have an Apple Mighty Mouse, the scroll ball also needs to be cleaned. Slightly dampen the microfiber cloth and roll the scroll ball against the cloth. You can also try using the cotton swabs to help clean the scroll ball.

Once the scroll ball is clean, use the can of pressurized air to blow out dust and dirt from inside the well the scroll ball sits in. This also serves to dry the scroll ball after you’ve cleaned it.

Magic Mouse

If you have an Apple Magic Mouse, cleaning is vastly simplified. You can clean the touch surface with a wet or dry microfiber cloth, and run the microfiber cloth along the two guide rails on the bottom of the Magic Mouse.

If your Magic Mouse seems to have tracking errors, that is, the mouse pointer stalls or jumps about, use the can of pressurized air to clean around the tracking sensor on the bottom of the Magic Mouse.

Other Mice

If you have a third-party mouse, follow the manufacturer’s suggested cleaning instructions, or take a look at How to Clean a Mouse by Tim Fisher, a fellow Lifewire expert who really knows his way around a PC. In general, use a microfiber cloth to clean the exterior of the mouse. If the mouse has a scroll wheel, you may find that it routinely becomes clogged with gunk. Use cotton swabs to clean the scroll wheel and the can of pressurized air to clean around the scroll wheel.

In the worst cases, you may need to open up the mouse to access the optical sensor in the scroll wheel system.

Not all mice are easily opened up, and some are very difficult to put back together once opened. I don’t recommend performing mouse surgery unless you already have a replacement mouse available, and don’t mind ending up with leftover mouse parts, or looking for that little spring that sailed across the room.

Cleaning Your Keyboard

Clean your keyboard surface using a microfiber cloth. For stubborn surfaces, dampen the cloth with clean water. Wrap a toothpick with a single layer of the microfiber cloth to clean between the keys.

Use the can of pressurized air to blow out any additional debris from around the keys.

Cleaning a Keyboard After a Spill

Spilling a beverage onto a keyboard is probably the most common cause of keyboard death. However, depending on the liquid, and how fast you react, it is possible to save a keyboard that has undergone a spillage.

Water and other clear liquids

Clear and semi-clear beverages, such as water, black coffee, and tea, are the easiest to recover from, with water offering the best chances, of course. When a spill occurs, quickly unplug the keyboard from your Mac, or quickly turn it off and remove its batteries. Don’t wait to shut down your Mac; disconnect the keyboard or remove its batteries as quickly as possible.

If the liquid was plain water, wait 24 hours to allow the water to dry before reconnecting the keyboard or replacing its batteries. With any luck, your keyboard will power back up and you’ll be ready to go.

Coffee and Tea

Coffee or tea spills are slightly more problematic, because of the acid levels in these beverages. Depending on the keyboard design, these beverages can cause very small signal wires within the keyboard to be etched over time and stop working. Many sources suggest flooding the keyboard with clean water, in the hope of diluting the acid levels, and then letting the keyboard dry out for 24 hours, to see if it still works. I’ve tried this method a few times, but it has failed more often than not. On the other hand, what have you got to lose?

Soda, Beer, and Wine

Carbonated beverages, beer, wine, and other hot or cold beverages are death sentences to most keyboards.

Of course, it depends on how much was spilled. A drop or two can usually be cleaned up quickly, with little or no lasting damage. If the spill was larger, and the liquid got inside the keyboard, well, you can always try the water submersion method, but don’t get your hopes up.

No matter what type of spill occurs, the key to possibly salvaging a keyboard is to disconnect it from any electrical source (batteries, USB) as quickly as possible and allow it to completely dry out before you try using it again.

Disasemble the keyboard

You can improve the chances of the keyboard recovering by removing the individual keys. The process is different for each keyboard model but in general, a small flat blade screwdriver can be used to pop the keys off. The larger keys such as shift, return, space bar, will sometimes have retaining clips or multiple connection points. Be especially careful when removing those keys.

With the keys removed, you may notice stains, puddled liquids, or other indications of specific areas on the keyboard that need attention. Use a slightly damp cloth to clean any stains and to soak up any standing liquids still present. You can also try using the can of pressurized air to dry areas where evidence indicates the liquid has gotten into the key mechanism.

Don’t forget to make a map of where each key goes to allow you to replace all of the keys. You may think you know where each key belongs, but when it comes time to reassemble the keyboard, a map may be just the guide you need.​

I can’t tell you how many keyboards we have around our office that work just fine, except for one or two keys, all of which were killed by spillage.

On a brighter note, I’ve never heard of a keyboard spillage causing damage beyond the keyboard itself.

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Qualcomm Claims Its New Chip Will Triple Battery Life on Wireless Headphones

There are currently two major annoyances with wireless headphones: the Bluetooth can cut out in areas with a lot of signal noise, and battery life is mostly terrible. Qualcomm thinks it’s packed a better solution to both of those issues into a new chip.

“It’s a big step forward in the hearable category,” Anthony Murray, Senior Vice President and General Manager of Qualcomm’s Voice & Music business unit, told Gizmodo.

According to Murray, the QCC5100 Low Power Bluetooth SoC reduces power consumption by 65 percent. This in turn gives headphones nearly three times the playback time compared to headphones with previous SoCs.

Murray also said the Qcc5100 has significantly better transmit power, which should reduce the number of times headphones cut out when you’re riding a packed subway or moving through a hellishly crowded airport. The chip supports Bluetooth 5, which was only announced in 2016, and just began to appear in devices, like the Samsung Galaxy S8 and Apple iPhone X, last year.

Besides these improvements, the minuscule chip has double the processing capability of Qualcomm’s former solution, which was found in popular headphones like the Jabra Sport Elite and Bose Free Sport.

This means that the chip can provide much more robust active noise cancelling and hearing assistance. For example, it would allow for some conditional sound changes like making sound softer when your headphones detect that an announcement is being made on a train. “We see this as becoming a general requirement,” Murray said. And if you look at the wide range of earbuds in the marketplace right now, and their multitude of auditory bionic features, you might be compelled to agree.

Currently there are no earbud makers who have declared they’re using the new QCC5100, but Qualcomm says it is working with a number of major manufacturers, and as its previous SoC was featured in the best earbuds of 2017, there’s a good reason to get excited for what the future of bionic buds holds.

Re Fuse Power Supply

When your power supply dies, it can mean two things – either a fuse has been blown, or it has a loose wire. Power supply fuses are among the few components that can be serviced. Most fuses are soldered directly to the circuit board. Replacing a fuse would require you to remove the circuit board, unsoldering the old fuse, and soldering a new fuse in its place.

  1. Unplug the Power Supply. Switch off the socket that is connected to the power supply. Unplug the line voltage power cord from the socket.
  2. Open and Unplug the CPU: Use a torx screwdriver to remove the torx screws of the CPU. Remove the CPU casing. Unplug the low voltage cables that are connected to the drives and motherboard. Remove any CPU cards that may obstruct your view of the power supply.
  3. Unscrew the Power Supply. Generally, the power supply is held in place by 4 torx screws. Unscrew them using the torx screwdriver and remove the power supply from the CPU.
  4. Check the Warranty. The warranty is a stamped sticker that is on one of the edges of the power supply. It consists of the warranty date, a bar code and a ‘pass’ stamp. If the warranty has expired, cut across the sticker safety seal and open the power supply case.
  5. Examine the Fuse. The fuse is usually located on one corner of the power supply. Use an ohm meter to check the fuse. If the ohm meter is showing readings below 0.1 ohms, or if there is resistance on the meter, then you will know that the fuse has blown.
  6. Charge the Soldering Iron. Plug in the soldering iron and heat it to about 700 degrees. Touch the tip of the soldering iron to the tin wires on either side of the fuse. As the solder softens, gently push the fuse away from the circuit board. Once the soldering is complete, you can remove the fuse.
  7. Solder New Pins to the New Fuse. Buff each end of the fuse with emery paper to dull the plating. Take the six inch long stripped 24 gauge wire with flux and tin it with resin solder. Tin the ends of the fuse, after which you can solder the wires to the ends.
  8. Trim the Wires and Circuit Board Pins. Use the wire cutter to remove any excess pins from the board. Also, cut the gauge wire with only an inch of space from the fuse joint.
  9. Solder the New Fuse. Place the new fuse onto the circuit board and solder it into place with the soldering iron. Once this has been completed, use the ohmmeter to test the fuse.
  10. Reinstall the CPU. Once the fuse is showing good readings on the ohmmeter, close the power supply case. Keep it back into the CPU and screw it in. Replace the CPU casing and plug it in for use.